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Joined: 2013/7/23 20:45 Last Login
: 2013/7/31 10:33
From Oconomowoc,WI USA
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THANK YOU ALL! I just had the chance to get back to the forum and am very pleased to hear from so many offering endorsements and support. GREAT SUGGESTIONS in getting started on the 120. I have begun with Step 1 by draining the old gas out. It smells like turpentine and is clear but a dark golden brown. It had about 10 gallons in the tank. No residue, rust or debris came out. The plug was easily removed. I put in new "good ole fashioned gas" that has 91 octane with no ethanol. Nice to still have a few stations within 10 miles that keep the premium free of ethanol. Wonder if there is any benefit to use an additional gas additive,like Sea Foam, or the Lucas products, to further clean the gas line and carb?If so, would appreciate suggestions either way. I have started to work on next draining the radiator. I have purchased two options for a radiator flush. Prestone and Gunk were available, each with a different set of directions. It seems the Prestone is a milder flush and the Gunk more caustic to the point of possibly stripping some of the protective layers on the radiator core. I like the idea of a more aggressive flush to get out rust and debris but certainly don't want to harm anything. In the few times that the engine has run for 10-15 minutes, the dash gauges read normal for oil pressure and water temperature, but when lifting the bonnet it seems hotter than I would expect. The Oil Cap and supply tube are smoking a bit, noting the oil fill dipstick says "Full". I wonder if the water pump is able to move fluids around the engine block or if this heating is normal. So hoping a flush will assist in lowering water temperature. Do I need to replace a Thermostat, and if so, where do I find one? I did open the stopcock on the lower front of the radiator and anti-freeze did come out. Nice and green, no rust or any discolor. I suspect it was changed during restoration 5 years ago, but, want to be certain its updated now. Hoses look "OK", no leaks, but a good idea to replace them all and not worry about some unforeseen problem. Should I use currently made products or does a 1939 need something special? Next Step: Oil Change and Filter Replacement. I found some SAE 30, as recommended by the 1939 Shop Manual, made by Citgo/Mystic, on sale for $1.80/quart. A deal, I think, at our Farm & Fleet Store. Lots of farmers still use this oil grade for tractors so it should continue to be available. Other SAE 30 makes, like Valvoline and Castrol were $5.99/qt. Can't imagine they are that much better... ACE Hardware and Walmart had some off label stuff, no specs, so not sure of quality. Any thoughts on Citgo being OK? For a new Oil Filter I called NAPA, who had nothing, and KANTER, who had a replacement Canister for a 1938, for $79 plus 15% shipping. Are there any other correct options, or should I use the 1938 unit. My Shop Manual seems to suggest that the Flathead 8 282cu inch is the same in 1938 and 1939. As far as on Air Filter, neither NAPA or KANTER had anything! Kanter told me to go to HEMMINGS and find other Packard Parts Dealers. Any suggestions on what should be used, or, could be used, to have some Air Filter Protection? So, that's it for Engine Issues, now Trim & Accessories. The pot metal passenger side front door handle fell off. The pot metal cracked with small pieces falling off. KANTER said they didn't have a replacement. So, the search begins, or, is there some way to re-form the existing to get it back in service. I will take some pics and post them for advice. I also see that on the center of the door support post on the passenger side, there is a plastic part, worn & broken, that I have no idea about it's function. Is that a switch for the ceiling light, a pull strap mount, or ? I am also missing the Seat Adjustment Pull Knob that supposedly control the front seat to slide it forward and back and somehow raises it a bit. Not sure it works or what needs to be replaced. One hubcap "Packard Eight" is pretty dented, so, I'd like to replace it. I find one at KANTER for $85 & 12.95 Shipping, or 4 at $288 & $43 shipping. Anyone out there have one, or know where is best to get one. I read that the best are made by chrome plating the brass shell. Sounds right, so, may be worth paying more now than some stamped out cheaper versions. Again, appreciate your thoughts or where to find one. Lastly for now, I love the look of the Front Grille Bumper Guard with 3 Horizontal Rods that tie the two front Vertical Bumper Guards together. Would love to find that option that works on the 39 bumper. I see more pics of them being on a Super 8 and especially in the 1940 and 1941 models. Anyone know where to find one? And one more sweet detail would be a set of Fog Lights, that mount to the front bumper supports. I love the look of Trippe Lights, but, kinda pricey if you can even find them. There appear to be some aftermarket items out there in 5 and 6 inch versions. KANTER has a set with the Packard Crest on the top. Kinda look like Trippe's but a much better price at $208 for 6" Amber. Oh, one more thing, Outside RearView Mirrors. I love the look of mounting on the top of the sidemount tires. Looks like you'd have to drill holes in the tire trim cover making it permanent. I've been told the functional view is very limited, poor range, and dangerous. Option two is aftermarket hot rod shop Peep Mirrors that attach to the door frame. I have a set of those previously purchased, and for now at least seem a starting point. What is the suggested placement along the door that works best? Any thought about Door Mounted versus Sidemount Tire mounted? WOW, that's a lot of questions!!! Sorry to be so "Long Winded". It just seems like there is so much to know, to fix, to update.... It really is an addictive and totally cool distraction. I LOVE THIS! Thanks for all your help and commentary. I REALLY DO APPRECIATE IT! I will try to post some pics today as well. ALL MY BEST, Randy Prestash Oconomowoc, WI
Posted on: 2013/7/31 11:31
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