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It could be a fuel issue except that doesn't fuel problems usually kind of make the engine sputter a bit instead of abruptly quitting.

If you have an OD, just for grins temporarily disconnect the lead which grounds the ignition. With an R9 it can be done at terminal 2 of the relay box but better yet would be the second wire either at the coil terminal or the distributor terminal. There have been some intermittent problems with OD circuitry and relays or contacts hanging which can do exactly as you describe.

There have also been some ignition switches which fail in a similar manner. The coil is supplied by it's own contact in the switch. Both the contact opening when warm or the wire in the armored cable momentarily shorting have been known to cause intermittent issues.

If the car still has the original or even an old coil, those are fairly well documented for some abrupt failures when warm and then all will appear well when cool again.

Howard,

When I read your reply about the OD circuit, it dawned on me that I hadn't engaged the OD (pushed in the dash control) until after the 1st intersection in my neighborhood. I had it engaged between the 1st and 2nd intersection, just prior to it stalling.

When I get home from work (after stopping for starting fluid, and a spark tester) I'll go for a drive around my 'hood without OD engaged. That should help determine if I need to focus on the OD circuit or back onto fuel/ignition.

If it stalls, then I will test the spark, and test with starting fluid.

Thanks Again,
Chad

I'm not sure if this is relevant to the currewnt situation, but thought I should post it just in case. One other thing I just remembered is that after the carb rebuild, and idling to warm up I put a vacuum gauge on the main vacuum line, and it showed a steady 20in at idle.

This afternoon I went for a drive, and without OD engaged there was no stalling (other than my own fault) . I was able to drive about 2 miles around my neighborhood coming to multiple stops, and slow downs.

With OD engaged I was not able to come to a stop without stalling. I coasted back into my driveway. It wouldn't restart. With Starting fluid spray, I was able to restart it without too much cranking.

I pulled it into the garage and took the top section of the carburetor off. With the car running the fuel level in the float bowl was approximately 19/32 to 5/8 rather than the 15/32 spec. It's a little hard to see in the picture, but the gauge is set for 15/32, and the fuel level is well below that.

I adjusted, put everything back together and took and took her out for a spin. Definitely drove better, with more pep. Still stalled with OD engaged, but was able to restart pretty quickly.

Here are a few pictures of the rebuilt carburetor, and one of the fuel level before adjusting.

I'm still puzzled about the stalling while slowing to come to a stop with OD engaged.

I'm pretty excited!
You guys are awesome.
Thank You for helping me make progress!

Chad

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To farther trace the problem, next time you take it out remove wire from terminal 2 of OD relay box. Go ahead and use the OD as you did today. Removing that wire won't prevent OD operation. It should come into OD when you get to +/- 20mph and drop out as it normally would when you fall below that speed when coming to a stop. The removed wire will affect the ability to do a forced kickdown so try and avoid that situation.

If the car runs normally, I would suspect a lagging or sticking relay or contact in the ground out circuit. If it still stalls, that will rule out an electrical problem with the grounding circuit and you can focus on other possibilities.

I was able to do some more work on the car today. When I tried to start it mid-week it warmed up, but wouldn't idle at all. Turns out that the the idle mixture screws generate maximum vacuum at about 3.5 turns out, instead of 1.5 turns. Then I tore down half of the carb to resolve a fuel leak. Hopefully these steps will eliminate fuel delivery issues.

Also installed a new set of spark plugs.

Unfortunately I ran out of time to test drive with the #2 OD circuit wire disconnected. Hope I can test this during this week.

BTW the Autolite 3136 plugs were only $1.59 at Autozone. Cheapest in my area by about .50 per plug.

Thanks,
Chad

I finally got to drive the car again yesterday.

I did as you suggested, and disconnected wire #2 (connection to the coil) from the OD relay, and went for a ride. The car did not stall, with OD enabled.

I'm not sure what to check next.


Thank You,
Chad

There are 3 sets of contacts in series which control the ground out. The idea is that the ground is applied to ign for such a brief time as to only cause a misfire of three or 4 cylinders and release torque for an instant so the solenoid can pull out. It sounds as if either the secondary relay is sticking or the solenoid is lagging and the ign is being grounded so long the engine stalls. A third but remote possibility is the wire between solenoid and relay in the grounding circuit is able to contact and ground out against the frame

The R9 sequence is when in OD, the contact at terminal 6 of solenoid is closed. At the same time, the secondary relay coil is in series with the solenoid hold in coil so it's contact is also closed. That brings ground to the third contact which is on the main power relay. Since the solenoid is powered, that third contact is now open and no ground is applied to the ign.

When dropping out of OD, the governor or kickdown switch opens ground to the main power relay. It drops out releasing the solenoid but at the same time closing the contact in the ign ground circuit and causing the engine to misfire and drop torque. Once torque is dropped the solenoid can pull out and should open it's contact in short order and remove the ground to engine before it stalls. Since it is mechanical, the secondary relay is supposed to be slightly faster and with the solenoid de-energized, it also opens as a backup. I am suspicious it might be sticking.

The relay is relatively easy to get to so popping the cover and checking the operation is the first part. Disconnect the battery and using a very small point file or some very rough texture ordinary paper, hold the contacts closed and run thru the contacts to check for roughness and to clean them up a tad. Also make sure when you push the contacts together and release the armature it springs right back out. If there is residual magnetism or a weak spring holding the secondary relay energized too long that can cause the issue.

The second check is the solenoid. If the OD is gummed up so the solenoid can't release and pull the pawl out quickly, the contacts can be staying closed too long -- but with the R9 that secondary relay is supposed to prevent that. If you had the R11 that would be the likely suspect.

The contacts in the solenoid do need periodic service. Download the EconoDrive training manual and have a look thru. It has several photos and details on servicing the solenoid.

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Harold,

I took the OD relay off the firewall, and cleaned all of the contacts lightly with a points file, and QD electronics cleaner.

Went for a test drive, and the OD worked as expected.

Thank you to all who provided insight, especially HH56.

Thanks,
Chad

I'm glad filing the points worked. I used to have some small flexible abrasive strips that were specifically meant for polishing electrical contact points rather than filing them and I'd think this would be preferable. If anyone knows where to obtain that material today I'd appreciate a lead.

Wish I had this on hand, probably a lot more gentle on the contacts.

Burnishing Tool

Thanks again for all of your help!

Chad