Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Here goes another little bug I want to address.

The car runs great (thanks to all who helped me understand timing and how to get 'er done).

As to starting, here's a tiny issue, but one I want to perfect....

In the morning, and sometimes during the afternoon after the car has sat a while, I will turn the key to start it.

Sometimes, before I turn the key, I will press the gas peddle down once. Sometimes, I do not. I haven't quite figured a pattern to use to solve the problem, so I am more or less randomly trying different start-up procedures as far as to press or not press the gas first.

Okay, either way (I guess, since I don't see a pattern yet), the car will just start to fire and then, die. After that, I turn the key again. It might take 4-5 seconds or so, and then it usually fires right up.

So, why does it fire right out of the bag, then die, and then, not fire at all until after 4-5 seconds of turning the key?

I wonder if it immediately floods a little on the first try, preventing it from firing all the way up. That's kind of my thought since I have to turn the key 4-5 seconds to finally start it up, as if maybe I am having to burn off some gas (taking about 4-5 seconds) before it will fire up.

Thoughts?

I think I would take off air cleaner and see the condition & watch operation of choke. It almost sounds as if it is not closing. When you press the pedal, the choke plate should quickly close to it's minimum setting assuming the engine is cold. Packard instructions were to slightly depress the acc. pedal & hold when starting car--that would close the choke but not pump the gas in.

I tried this morning by slightly pressing accelerator. Same result.

I took off air cleaner and looked at carb. This is where I plead some ignorance.

Isn't the choke plate the flat piece of metal that pivots at the tob of the carb?

If so, it was pivoted to close againt the back of the carb.

Car is started now. I am going for a spin and will check back.

OK, sounds like choke is working. Plate is normally almost closed with maybe a 1/16 to 1/8 in gap depending on carb so if that not cause, then maybe time for tuneup etc just to check things out & see condition. Has there been anything done to car in many years or are you just starting to drive it after a long sit? After what you've reported on timing, WS setup etc it sounds like a good checkup is in order.

I really can't speak as to what has or hasn't been done to the car prior to a year ago when I got it. Since I got it, I changed the oil. I figured out the tappet problem after reading up, and just added a quart to quiet down the tappet. I just recently fixed the timing. That's it.

Actually, there was one other thing. The pin that holds the rocker arm in the fuel pump came loose and allowed the rocker arm to fall off pivot. The car would not start. After chunking some gas in the carb. and listening to the car fire-up, I diagnosed the problem was fuel, where I then discovered the rocker arm pin came loose on the fuel pump. I took off the fuel pump, put the rocker arm back in place and reassembled. That was that.

I can tell you this... At first attempt to start (when it fires very briefly and dies), if you pop the hood, you can smell gas.

I have recently tracked mileage, and I get around 11 mpg. I don't know if that's to be expected.

My wife says the exhaust is bothersome, but although I smell it, I attribute it to the way old cars used to be. I'm not bothered by it, but you definitely get a whiff of race-track smell.

Oh, also, on a cold morning, the car runs a bit rough (weak) as I pull out of the driveway and start down the street. It takes maybe 1/4 to 1/2 mile before it starts smoothing-out. During the early part of the warm-up stage, I sometimes get a couple of quiet backfires from around the manifold area. I assume this area, but all I really know is it's from under the hood. After 1/2 mile down the road, the car is good for the rest of the day.

I think 11 mpg is a bit low for a Clipper unless it is 100% stop and go town driving but maybe others can speak better to that. I thought I remembered a higher number tossed around. If it smells like gas, and if the exhaust is blackish and smells like you describe, it may be running too rich. A carb rebuild might not be a bad thing to add to your to-do list.

Thanks, HH. I will look more carefully at the exhaust. I recall not seeing blackish exhaust, but the typical blue/grey. I will post back.

As far as dricing conditions, it is mostly Houston driving with a bit on the freeway. Not bumper-to-bumper rush-hour driving, though. I travel only 5 miles to work and back, with driving to the store and to lunch, etc.

EDIT: Prior post deleted. Lots of questions answered via live chat. Sounds like rebuild is the ticket. Thanks.

Okay, I read the training manual on how carbs work and the things that get adjusted.

First, I just have to say that the whole mechanism is simple genius! It was also interesting to read how a ball and plunger is used as a device to start the car by only pressing the gas peddle. Too cool.

That said, in addition to the rebuild kit, will I require any special tools besides your basic screwdrivers and wrenches?

I saw references to some measuring gauges which I don't have. That much, I know. I guess these are stock gauges any auto parts store will carry?

Any other tools anyone can think of that I'll need?

I just now looked at the last page of the manual and saw a list of tools. My God! Do I really need all those? If I do, do some of the specialized tools come with the rebuild kit? For those I'd have to buy, how the heck would a desigmate them to an auto parts counter-sales person? Those names and part numbers surely are gone and forgotten by now.

My Clipper gets between 20 - 22 mpg on the highway, and between 12 and 15 in city driving. Of course on the highway I'm doing 70+. Just my