Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

I am replacing the gaskets on my OD solenoid to adapter/transmission ('41 - R9) and also have a new plunger seal. I did not one (seal) on previously and it is not apparent exactly how this goes on. Does this seal go between the baseplate and the trans, or between the baseplate and the solenoid? And, which way does the face of the seal point - to the trans or away from it?
I don't see a reference to this seal in the manual.

It kind of depends on the seal but for a typical lip seal you want the flexible lip of the seal to be facing the OD or oil source. That way any pressure would tend to make the lip push more tightly against the plunger metal rather than have it push the seal away from the metal and pass thru between the lip and metal.

There is a cutaway of the solenoid assy in figure 9 (page 5) of the Econodrive Training manual which you can download from the site and there are a few photos and a discussion of the seal and spacer in this old thread.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=9879&viewmode=flat&order=ASC&type=&mode=0&start=0

Watch that the spacer is oriented properly (small holes on the spacer are to the rear) and energize the solenoid so the ball can be inserted into the pawl properly. (If solenoid still connected, have OD lockout knob pushed in and ground both the solenoid case and the wire connected to governor AD terminal -- if not still connected, temporarily connect both solenoid terminals 3 and 4 together for hot lead and the solenoid case for the ground). Use heavy wire to the battery and energize the solenoid so plunger is extended while catching the slot in the pawl.

Both the solenoid and the spacer being installed improperly have caught people by surprise when the OD didn't work after reinstalling the solenoid.

Hi Howard,
Thank you for the reply. If I understand the referenced link correctly, the seal is actually part of the adaptor that goes between the solenoid ad the OD. I remove a washer, replace the seal, and replace the washer. Is that right?

That is correct. In the old thread I linked above, on page two, post 12, about halfway thru the photos in that post Joe shows removing the washer and seal. The washer may be staked but should come out without too much grief.

Here is an illustration of how a typical lip seal should be oriented with the lip toward the side where pressure or liquid originates. Illustration is of a PS seal install but the OD seal installs the same way and direction but is without the extra pieces. Instead of toward cylinder the inner lip would face toward OD.

Attach file:

---

  (33.37 KB)

Howard,
This is great, very helpful. When I looked at the link I did not realize it was several pages and just went through the first one. All this info makes it very clear.
always great help here.
Jim

When you are putting back the solenoid make sure the pawl is able to go about an inch into mesh with the gear. If it only pushes in a tiny bit you need to turn the drive shaft until it goes in about an inch. And make sure the solenoid does not go straight in the hole, but at an angle to hook the ball in the groove of the pawl. Hope that makes sense.

The last time I did this (last week - no seal) I had to energize the solenoid to take it out and to get it into the pawl. This time, when I took it out I did not have to energize it. I believe that if I can engage it into the pawl so that it does not pull out when pulling straight, it is where it needs to be and I should have no worries about it not being in far enough. is that correct?.

Good. Just make sure you have not rotated the drive shaft. If so the pawl cannot pull all the way in. If you make or have a small hook you can tell if the pawl goes in the full way or not. In my case my little finger can put pressure on the pawl through the round hole. Put the pressure on it rotate shaft and you will feel when pawl goes into place. But you will need a hook or in my case made a rod with a small ball on end to pull the pawl all the way outwards where it needs to be to engage solenoid ball shaft without being energized.

I recently discovered my seal leaking. The solenoid was loose and I was hoping that it just needed some tightening. Unfortunately it looks like I will need to replace the seal as it is still dripping. Appreciate all these awesome details/insight.

I found the below video on youtube which helps visualize it further. I was stressing about this being a difficult thing to fix but this helps calm some of that pre-fix anxiety.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5NCTrCq69M

Hopefully this will help someone else as well.