Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

I've never seen one of the band tabs broken. Congratulations on finding a new failure mode.

The silvery paste is actually babbit. The bushing in the ring gear WAS babbit lined, as was the inner bushing of the rear pump.

Betcha every trace of that is gone and the fit of the ring gear on the pump nose will be horrible. On rebuilds I drill an extra oil feed for that one.

Haha, thanks.

I did notice a significant amount of play in the direction normal to the axis as I was disassembling. I'll inspect what you are mentioning specifically later.

Is there any way to renew the babbitt lining? If not, do you just ignore the slop, or install some type of bushing?

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For disassembling the high range clutch assembly, what equipment should be used in lieu of the PK-304 spring compressor?

I do mine in my shop press with the aide of a couple pieces of steel welded together. Will try to take a picture tomorrow.


In regards to your babbit query, the new bushings in the rebuild kit will be babbit lined in that location.

Thanks Ross, I suppose I will have to figure something out for this tool. Possibly make something subtractively from pipe or something. I'm sure I could 3D print something from metal, but it would not be cheap – probably $100 to print.

Disassembled the valve body today (on my front porch in 20° weather 🥶) and there wasn't too much surprising. Main question I have is whether the #6 and #8 valves in the rear lower body should be removed; if so, how? I noticed they appear to be clipped in but I'm not sure how to get that off.

Unsurprisingly there was tons of gunk. The throttle valve and low-high shift valve in particular I doubt would have worked well in this state. Before and after pics of the low-high valve below. Also noticed some rusting on the ends of some valves.

Overall was pretty smooth but I had to bend a pick to remove the #2 valve in the rear lower body as it was a bit stuuuck.

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Finally got done with the main disassembly. Only the low range brake, and the propeller shaft, I was not able to do much with. The high range clutch I was able to take apart and reassemble with no special tools, but only at significant difficulty. I may try to make a tool for that sometime.

The reverse brake took a larger than expected amount of force to disassemble, but was in good condition other than that.

Spud.

When you get to band lever.


Knock the roll pin out. To see if strut is broken.


If they are..

2 options.. one I can make you 2 from chrome moly.

Or I have NOS struts.

No charge..

Also

The levers. have a pin. Remove it.

And. You let the lever rotate around pin.

Then.

Use a spacer to center lever.

I made thick aluminum ones
.
Kevin used. Washers.

Thanks RH, I will have to check on it. This transmission is only for parts, though I will be using some parts on a 56 Nash style to make it into a 56 Packard style. Probably the bands and such parts I will not need to have intact on the trans but it's worth checking.

Shortly, when the weather is nicer, I will be disassembling my 56 Nash transmission also. Probably in the same thread.

I stumbled on this post. The OP says the "previous owner" that rebuilt a lot of Twin Ultra's had this list of modifications. I am attaching the list here, and I transcribed it below.

- Remove the vent from the left side of the case. Plug the opening. Drill and tap a hole in the tail shaft housing above the speedometer drive for a 1/8 inch pipe to 1/4 inch flare fitting with a 45° flare outlet. Manufacture a steel or copper quarter inch tube to run from the fitting parallel to the case to the transmission to engine mating point. Secure by clamps at the tail shaft housing to main case mating ?? bolt. And tap a 10–32 hole for front clamp on top center of the bell housing.
- Drill a reduction gear bushing lubrication hole at the 12 o’clock position and midway front to rear. Packard did this in the late 1956’s.
- Enlarge the oil passage from the rear pump outlet to the reduction gear bushing to 13/64”. This is for lubrication of the bearing and to supply oil pressure for governor control pressure operation.
- Install an ⅛” inch hole in the rear pump check valve to provide lubrication of the reduction gear rear bushing journal from the front pump when the car is not moving.
- Put lubrication hole at 12 o’clock position for reduction gear.

The first line appears to be the "breather relocation" as described in the SB's, i.e.:https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SB-319.pdf

For the two notes on a "reduction gear bushing lubrication hole", it sounds the same as something Ross mentioned earlier in this thread. Though I am unsure of the exact location in question.

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