Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Hey guys, I just thought I'd mention here that I have begun offering my services reconditioning the wiring on 1956 T/L limit switches, providing the switch still works.
I remove the old wires, clean up the posts to accept new solder, attach new wires in the proper colors for up/down (your choice when I do them), apply heat shrink tubing at the switch and equip them with new bullet connectors, wrap the harness with tape and coat the conncetion at the switch end with rubber compound, as original.
If the switch is inoperative we are all out of luck, they way ther are made it is impossible to service them. I am looking into retrofitting a switch from an industrial electronics catalog, using the OE body, but that will require some doing. So far there seem to be enough good switches out there with bad wires or connections, they just need to be re-dressed with new wires and connectors.
The switches are easy to test, just get your ohmeter set for low ohms, put the leads across the two wires (or posts) the meter should show continuity (zero ohms) and when you push on the plastic plunger the circuit should go open.
PM me if interested, If you are a DIY guy I can give helpful advice as well.

That is a very good service! As you state, the switches themselves are good - it's the wires that break or corrode over time. That will help a lot of 56 owners.

Yes it is a good service that is needed and I hope you find the right commercial switch that works. I gave up after trying 3 different ones. Maybe the type used was the issue as I tried NC snap action. Ones I could find were not precise enough--an eight of turn in adjustment made it come in just right or too late so didn't trust them. Maybe there is one out there.

Have you given thought to drilling out the (assumed) broken or burned contact they use and replacing those with a long rivet or maybe a brass screw so the ball could still be used? Problem I saw there was not trusting any adhesive to ensure something didn't move & short--although maybe some threads. The last one I fixed used a piece of phenolic on top of the contacts that pressed against the inside of switch hsng. Nice little oval recess already in bakelite worked well for keeping it in place. Made a hole for the plunger to pass & push ball. I reattached by drilling & tapping thru metal into bakelite and installing a few setscrews then the rubber to cover.

I still think a switch like that used in transfer cases can be used in place of the original switches. Even if you have to redrill the housing, at least you'd have an easily available switch that you can buy anywhere. Eventually it's going to come to this, as the supply of original switches will dry up and people will have no alternative.

Not familiar with the switch you mention but maybe Mr PB is. These things are very constrained inside, have a short operating cam ramp. Switch has a long nose that extends in close to cam & a plunger which pushes a shorting ball away from bottom of 2 contacts. The plunger moves about a tenth inch or less before contact broken. Much more and you're approaching a danger zone with the bars.

Hey gang, I think I have figured out a fix for the OE switches. Does anyone have a couple of dead ones that I can do some beta site work on? I'll return them with new wires, bullet connectors and rubber coating for the first set I receive. PM me for address info if you are interested.