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Re: 1934 1103 ELECTRICAL PROBLEM
#11
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Terry Cantelo
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Hi Tim,

I did as you suggested and then checked out the right hand headlamp and everthing was as you listed. However, on the left hand lamp when checking the three cables with a test lamp(Black natural ground, Brown power cable and green power cable.) I found the following in the three headlamp switch positions:- Position #1 Brown live, green dead, Position #2 Brown live, green dead, Position #3 Brown dead, green live.
With the switch in #1&2 position the green cable always shows it going to ground. This is the situation that's bugging me or is it correct by switching grounds to obtain the lamp operation.

Terry

Posted on: 2012/1/1 7:15
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Re: 1934 1103 ELECTRICAL PROBLEM
#12
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Tim Cole
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Hi Terry:

Good. We're making progress. Your results are consistent with the headlight switch diagram.

The only purpose the third wire in the left side light socket serves is to secure the bus bar. It gets plugged into a dead end in the five hole bakelite headlight connector.

As for the ground through the green wire when on "tilt" and "pass" as long as the bus bar is connecting pins 1 and 2 in the headlight socket that shouldn't matter because there is already a shorter path to ground in the headlight bulb. It may be that the column switch bridges the unused filaments in the 1 and 2 positions (that switch is like a clever question on an IQ test). Anyway, just take both headlight bulbs out and verify that the circuit becomes open. If you had a short circuit you would be burning out fuses like crazy (or the burned out left bulb is the only reason you weren't blowing fuses). If you want to be sure substitute a test light for the fuse and move the switch through the positions. It should glow or be dead, but if it suddenly burns brighter then you have a short in the harness or a wire hooked up wrong. To be sure, remove all bulbs and retest if you find a problem.

Those special big fuses are available through MSC Industrial Supply and should be replaced anyway.

Glad to hear that your three filament system is intact.

Posted on: 2012/1/1 10:33
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Re: 1934 1103 ELECTRICAL PROBLEM
#13
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Owen_Dyneto
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NAPA also carries the large glass fuses. Often available over the counter:

NAPA 782-1017 for 20 amp
NAPA 782-1019 for 30 amp.

Posted on: 2012/1/1 11:25
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Re: 1934 1103 ELECTRICAL PROBLEM
#14
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Terry Cantelo
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Hi Tim,

Looks like we are on the right track Yippee. Can you please clarify what you meant by the third wire in the left side. Do you mean the black ground wire should go into a blank hole in the buss bar and not into the hole marked (G) for ground. I have'nt blown any fuses as yet.

Thanks

Terry

Posted on: 2012/1/1 14:19
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Re: 1934 1103 ELECTRICAL PROBLEM
#15
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Thomas Wilcox
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Yes, the lamps have grounds, either through the housing or sometimes folks will solder a ground wire directly to the socket and then run it to the frame to ensure a good ground. The power lead going to ground is shorted to the frame/body someplace, more than likely.

Is the harness original?

Posted on: 2012/1/1 19:01
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Thomas Wilcox
34 Roadster, [url=https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/r
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