Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Gremlins still at work but this is what I've done thus far.

Today it was suggested that I remove the 'green knob' (power on/off switch) and go directly to the negative post (remember I converted my 400 over to negative ground for a variety of reasons) for best electrical contact. I did just that and the car started 6x in a row without fail. On the seventh try, again a no start. Same sound; seems like something not right at or near starter. I then went back underneath and cleaned my battery terminals. They looked clean BUT I did them again anyways. Attempt to start car and nothing same sound. Whack starter, same sound. Time for a Budweiser and contemplate what my for sale ad should read.

Here are a few pictures on my possible suspects. After dinner, I'm going to try and use an extra ignition switch I have on the shelf.

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Just for S&G remove the plastic housing at the rear of the solenoid and examine the copper bolts and copper ring. After many starts, the bolts will be partially eaten away and can be rejuvenated by turning them 180 degrees and reinstalling them. Also examine the copper ring and see if it is worn enough to flip over to the fresh side. If this is the case, reassemble the solenoid and don't forget to stop at NAPA and buy a rebuild kit for the solenoid.
I also have a cheap disconnect switch like you have and I clean it up every Spring on the wire wheels. It arcs a little every time you twist it open or close. Cleaning with a wire wheel gets rid of the arc buildup. They are only $4 or $5 a pop, so if you are unsure, buy a new one.

Took starter unit back out yesterday. Still not fully engaging each time. Using a 'remote' starting device, the ignition switch was removed from the picture so to speak and the problem persisted remotely. I guess I went by the wrong NAPA today; they said they couldn't supply me with a kit. RB you have a part number possibly?

Thanks

I'll save Randy the trouble since I'm staring at box with the part number on it. O_D mentioned this as the number some time back. When I ordered mine last year it had to come from one of their larger warehouses.

Have you checked the pinion clearance and travel mentioned in the SM. If one of those is out, it could cause the solenoid to not engage completely. Not mentioned very well but also important is the solenoid alignment. There may be some slop in the mounting holes and if enough for solenoid to be twisted, the plunger won't move smoothly and can bind in the bore.

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Thanks Howard!

Thanking you both. Keep you posted.

Picked up the starter unit from the local hop here in Tucson. The pictures are from the interior of the solenoid. The fellows at the shop conveyed that this condition is caused by low voltage! They put another solenoid (Chinese) on the starter.

So, at this point I'm skittish about putting the starter back into the car without 'fixing' something else? How does one get 'low-voltage' to that solenoid in the first place? Many may recall that we replaced the entire wiring harness with a brand new harness from PAINLESS during the restoration a couple of years back. Could, would a weak ignition unit do this to the solenoid? I'm over my head here now and need help from you very experienced trouble-shooters. As always, many thanks in advance.

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Cheque voltage at solenoid with volt meter. Check voltage at starter terminal that solenoid connects to too. If voltage checks out ok then put it on and run it.

How old is the OLD solenoid that was found to be burned????

Low voltage to STARTER terminal (going to inside of starter body) would cause slow cranking of engine.

Old solenoid made in china too??? Any name on either solenoid???

Low voltage does come to mind in a few spots along this list of occurences. Low voltage or bad ground will cause solenoid contacts to arc and sometimes chatter. Sometimes when they arc, they will actually arc weld themselves together and the starter will continue to crank. Have you checked your cables to make sure you don't have corrosion or a bad connection somewhere. You can check voltage with a meter or a light, but remember it only takes a strand or two of wire to pass those tests, but a whole lot more to deliver the amps neccesary to operate a solenoid and starter. Feel free to contact me directly with any questions.
Jason
Advanced Electrical Rebuilders
Specialist in Starter, Generator, Distributor & D.C. Motor Restoration
jason@aerrebuild.com
www.aerrebuild.com