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Hi Guys,
Yet another question. On returning back from a motor show yesterday I noticed that the ampmeter was not showing a charge any more. When I turn the lights on there is no movement to the charge side of the meter at all.
The questoin is where do I start to check this out? A cursory look at the commutator showed it a bit dirty and I cleaned it up with some very fine wet and dry paper to no avial, still no charge. The commutator does not show any wear where the brushes run but I could not tell if the brushes were ok. Is there a procedure I should run through to determine if its the genny or the regulator? Can brushes be obtained for the genny, if so where? Its an Owen dyneto 1166.
If the genny has to come out is this a difficult Job due to the chain drive. I don't fancy taking the front of the engine compartment out.

Thanks in anticipation

Terry

Hi Terry:

First of all, removing the generator does not require any diassembly of the front engine cover and timing chain drive. You simply remove the 3 nuts holding the generator in place, and then separate the generator from the bronze sleeve or "snout" that separates the generator from the engine block casting, and just slide the generator rearwards, making sure the bronze sleeve stays in place - it holds the gear drive and timing chain in place within the timing chain housing.

As to brushes, I've never been able to get my hands on any - but you can adapt something, no doubt. I'm sure our friend Jason from AER will have information about that, and also about the so-called "regulator" - that's a bit of a misnoner since it doesn't regulate current - you have a third brush generator so the positioning of the 3rd brush controls the amperage. The "regulator" is a voltage control and cutout. NORS regulators (O-D 21262 I believe) have just recently been discontinued by NAPA and I'm not aware of any source for them, but apparently there are some alternatives. Again, Jason Smith is probably the best source of information on this as he makes his living doing this, and in the past I've found him very helpful.

Jason visits this site occasionally, here's his info:

Jason Smith
Advanced Electrical Rebuilders
16574 S. Bauer Rd
Grand Ledge, MI 48837
www.aerrebuild.com
toll-free: 1-866-228-0218

Cheers Dave, Very helpful info. Have you any idea why the sudden loss of charge and how do I check tings with a meter or is this a question for Jason.

There's a fuse and a set of contact points within the Dyneto regulator. The fuse may be insulated by a paper sleeve that might have deteriorated so check that. Also there is a set of points within the unit - you might want to clean and dress the points lightly. There are special abrasive tools made exclusively for cleaning such points; if you don't have one, don't use an abrasive paper, but rather an ignition point file. Look for a break in the very fine thermal wire on the voltage control, and if intact (hopefully) be VERY CAREFUL not to break it.

A description of the unit and instructions for adjusting are attached from the A.E.A., Edition T, 1934.

Attach file:

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Dave,
I have just checked the fuse and points and everything looks like new with the little thermal wire still intact. I could only just read the aea chart but it is still difficult to read. is it on the packard site?

Terry, it's probably on the PAC site, I don't recall. But I'll just email it to you and you can manipulate the image as needed. In my views it's all legible, though pg1 is easier on the eyes.

Dave,

Do I read it correctly that the timing chain/generator drive will not dissolve into the timing case? Will the bronze sleeve try to come out and is it part of the gear drive or a support for the genny drive? What disaster could take place if it does come it?

Terry, never had a problem removing a generator with this type of installation, the fit between the bronze sleeve and the generator is not a snug, precision fit and besides, it is oonstantly bathed in oil so they should separate easily. After you remove the 3 retaining nuts, just use a screwdriver or similar to get a little separation between the generator front flange and bronze part, then hold the bronze in place and slide the generator rearwards. Otherwise you'll be removing the radiator, front timing chain cover, and probably the oil pan. You may want a second pair of hands, the generator is no lightweight.

There will be two of us working on it and hopefully with your info no problems will be encountered but its best to prepare. One final question Dave what's the purpose of the slotted flange on the generator, some kind of adjustment?

Thanks again

Terry

The generator rotates a bit so you can adjust as slack develops in the timing chain. There is a plug on the horizontal surface of the timing chain cover, just below the ventilation scupper IIRC - the plug looks just like the oil pan and transmission drain plugs. You remove it and adjust the tension by feeling the slack with your finger. You are feeling the chain on a very long span, so you want it to NOT be taut, but with about 1/2 of deflection.