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I'm doing a wiper conversion and I got the intermittent switch with it from Newport. They don't ship any mounting bracket and the rotary switch is a 7/16 double D slot mount which isn't real common. I have to make a bracket to mount. I looked at the punch tool to cut that slot and it's >$300. What has anybody else done to get around?
I called Newport and he said to just tighten it on with the nut, but I'm not liking that solution those panel nuts can loosen and switch won't twist. There's no holes or other places on the switch to tap into.

If it's like the double D on the regular switch, the flat area below the threads is marginal. There might be enough bite for an external tooth lockwasher alone (better would be internal/external washer) but I think I would use some JBWeld Putty in addition. Build up the missing areas around the flat surface to provide a larger full contact surface area for the lockwasher. Embed the washer a tiny bit while the putty is still soft enough to take the teeth and install the nut on the bracket just enough to hold things together until it sets -- not tight enough to completely embed the washer in the putty. Since the switch is relatively smooth, if you wanted to you could also use something like a circle of wire to embed deeper in the putty and keep it from coming off the switch. The embedded pattern of the teeth and putty against the flats should hold it securely. Once the nut is tightened, the teeth should also grab the rear of bracket and the putty securely.

If that is more trouble than it is worth, or you were still not convinced, another option might be to drill a bracket with a smaller bit to fit the flat narrow portion and then just use a round file on opposite sides to elongate for the D. Shouldn't take too many strokes.

Out of curiosity, since you are needing a bracket is your car one having the regular control in the steering column and if so, where are you going to mount the new switch?

I have to mount the switch somewhere under the dash so it doesn't show and can be seen and accessed. I know you(HH) made some fancy under bonnet contraption for yours so you could use the original parts.
I will not punch a hole in the original dash sheet metal.
I'll probably dremel it out close to square and put a big rubber washer on the inside. I might be able to make a flat stop (L) for the housing so it can't rotate behind the scenes and go with it.
I looked around for mounting plates with DD slots and came up empty, was just hoping someone had a lead or clever idea - not saying yours isn't but I'm not a JBweld kind of guy...(nor duct tape) I found they duct taped some floor holes on my new ride and I had to do some patching I wasn't planning on. Please use it on ducts - only!
I'm guessing a control panel shop would have the punch but I'm not familiar with any here. I'm retired and my panel builder contacts are long gone or far away. Alot of this manual component stuff went away with all the digital displays and soft switches, etc. I don't now why this wasn't solved by the supplier. The standard DD slot is much bigger and only used for cam-locks thse days.

I know some don't like JB weld so that is why I suggested the second option of drilling and filing. I don't use it for anything structural or around heat but figured it would work to increase surface area. The cutout punches and tools are mostly mfg only these days and as you said, the mechanical switch and old radio shops are scarce so even those are going by the wayside.

How hard does the switch turn or I guess the better question is how hard is the detent to turn it on and what is the range -- does it go Off - Hi - Lo in detents and then remainder of circle for the intermittent or is it a single detent off and then just potentiometer like an old radio volume switch?

I was wondering if there was some way to have the original cable operate it with a lever or gear rack and pinion or are the detents too hard. The regular switch was fairly hard so I had to come up with something else when I did my mod.

hh, fishn jim,

can some thing be machined?,, if i know what you need i might be able to make something,

After further study, I'm convinced the best/simplest way to mount this is to attach at the base, a simple sheet metal job. Drill a round hole for the fascia to put the knob through but hold down/support at the back where the flange is. Won't ever turn.