Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

I have a 1954 Clipper.
It was stored 15 years (improperly) ago before I got it 10 years ago.
So this year I finally made an attempt to get it running.
After months of chasing electrical issues, last week i got a nice solid bright spark from one of the plugs.
Putting some gas in the carb I got a small "bump" from the engine. FINALLY!:)
Pulled it out last weekend and tried everything including starter fluid but it wouldn't even offer an start.

I am getting strong flow of fuel to the carb.

What can i do?!?!

If it was run and then parked I would expect the carb would be not in the greatest shape. It could be varnished up or clogged from the old fuel just drying in the bowl. The seal on the accelerator pump plunger could also be dried up and not squirting any gas as the accelerator is pumped. Also make sure you are using fresh gasoline and not anything that was left in the lines or tank.

Since you did get a small "bump" I would clean and check the plugs, set the gap, and try again. Also verify the spark is consistent and a nice strong spark is seen on each opening of the points as you crank the engine. Assuming the distributor was not touched it should still be in reasonably close time but that might be worth checking too. If it still doesn't cooperate, do a compression test just to make sure some of the valves haven't stuck.

Thanks Howard.
It was driven into a damp garage and parked for 15 years.
Then I pulled it out and put in my dry garage.
I've replaced the plugs, wires, condenser, points, battery, cap, rotor. Fresh gas pumping through.

BUT the adjustable dial on the side of the Carter carb was held on with a tie wrap. When I touched it last night, the dial moved and I heard the spring inside unwind:(

I don't believe it is pumping fuel through the carb well but it wouldn't fire by putting fuel in the carb bowl.

?

You need 3 things to start, fuel, compression and spark. FIRST you have to diagnose if each are present and working.

Throwing parts at a problem is not the way to fix things.

With all you changed I would reverify the spark first. On some distributors there is a flexible wire inside that connects the points to the outside terminal. The wire is covered with cloth insulation. On many occasions that cloth has rotted and as soon as the distributor and wire is disturbed to change the points and condenser a chunk of the cloth falls away. Most times a portion of the wire is hidden so if the cloth falls off unseen, possibly a short has developed and is preventing a spark.

Also verify the voltage supply at the coil while the engine is cranking. If the voltage falls below about 5v when the starter is running the spark will be very weak and may not be able to jump the gap under compression. That can happen if the starter motor is pulling excess current. It can also be caused by dirty connections, too small a capacity battery or, if the cables have been replaced, too small of battery cables. Typical battery cables sold today at parts stores are too small -- even those rated at 6v.

If the spark is still good then I would check the compression. With being stored in a damp environment one or more of the valve stems could have rusted causing the valves to stick in the guide. That has been a problem found by a few people when trying to start long sitting cars.

The black cover on the carb side and spring is for the choke so eventually that will have to be fixed but as long as the choke is closed when you are trying to start now it shouldn't cause an immediate issue. Once the engine starts you can manually open the choke. I would still verify the carb is not varnished up and fuel is able to pass thru the jets. If the compression and spark checks out then I would think about a carb rebuild sooner rather than later.

Thanks again Howard.
I've got 6V at the coil while cranking. I checked the condenser wire and it's in great shape.
I pulled the fuel line off the carb while cranking to check if fuel was coming through and YES:) But seems dry in the carb for so much coming from the pump.
Shouldn't it at least burp with fuel put in the carb directly?
I pulled all the plugs and poured a little oil in the cylinders to try and help compression.

Other than what has already been suggested, about the only other thing I can think of to check and that might restrict fuel flow for the dry carb is if you have the optional ceramic element fuel filter next to the carb, the ceramic elements have been known to get varnished up from fuel evaporating in the glass bowl and then clogging the pores. They will let a bit of air pass if you blow thru but fuel is kept to a trickle. There is also a fine mesh screen in the fuel inlet at the carb. It is either in the inlet fitting or under a large hex plug just behind the fuel inlet.

If the gas tank has tiny rust particles floating around there is a screen in the bottom of the fuel pump which can get clogged. If you disassemble to look at either the fuel bowl at the pump or the glass bowl on the ceramic filter, you will probably need new gaskets as the old ones usually take a set and will leak once removed and then put back together.

The 6v at the coil when cranking seems a bit high. With the amp draw of the starter motors, typically it falls a small amount and may drop to about 5.5v with a 6v battery. Are you still on 6v or has the car been converted to 12v and is there a ballast resistor in the coil supply circuit?

You still are not doing a competent analysis of the spark, fuel and compression. If you find something wrong it will just be by luck.
There are testers for compression, putting a little oil in may boost it by 10-20 lbs but if you have NO compression is some cylinders the oil will be of no use.

All the suggestions are good ones but they need to be done in a logical order.

There are any number of repair manuals that detail diagnostic procedures, use one.

Sorry Howard; I rounded to 6V but I will get an accurate reading while cranking.
I have to say I do have a nice bright solid spark on the plug:)
I'll check those couple of things you mentioned with the carb as well.

squirt some brake-clutch-cleaner in the carburetor, if it will start with that, your ignition is ok...

but you haven?t heard this trick from me, it is a bit dangerous and flames might flash out of the carb if you use too much or your ignition timing is completely wrong... don?t look near the carb while starting