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Some of you may recall I had a knocking question recently. I was told this evening that I have little or no compression on the 2nd and 3rd cylinders moving from the fan rearward. My brother-in-law thinks it may be a couple of things, but really doesn't know. The knock "went away" with an oil change including 1 1/2 quarts of Marvel oil. Any of you guys have any ideas or a place for me to start? As usual, thanks in advance! Paul

I haven't a clue about the knock but low compression in one or more cylinders can be burned valves but when in two adjacent cylinders a more likely cause is a blown head gasket. If your engine has mechanical lifters you might first check the tappet clearances and retest the compression.

How would one blow a head gasket? I have always driven my car very gently, I hope to goodness this is not something I caused! Is that a huge repair? I think the tappets are hydraulic and they were the suspects in the knocking...

No, it's not a huge repair - quite the opposite, pretty basic skills and tools only. See

http://www.packardclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=863

How can it happen? Old age, gasket fatigue, improper cylinder head torque, etc.

Today is the first day I have seen the car since this happened. Really running rough, kind of chugging... Also noticed the bolts atop the motor (the center ones) have a bit of oil around the nut. This is right above the 2nd and 3rd spark plugs back from the fan. I want to get this done as soon as I can. I have to tell you, this old car has been a stress reliever for me! I need it back soon...

Also noticed the bolts atop the motor (the center ones) have a bit of oil around the nut. This is right above the 2nd and 3rd spark plugs

Further indication of a failed head gasket.

I have to tell you, I am grateful that this could possibly the problem. I also think it has been coming on for a year or so... I have noticed the oil on the bolt(s) for about that time.

Does anyone have a suggestion for a particular place where one would order that gasket? Or a particular type/ style or brand of gasket?

Owen, I particularly appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge with me! Thanks abundantly.

Paul

Try torqueing the head nuts.

Paul, you can get a new proper gasket from Kanter Bros., Max Merritt, or Egge, among others. Cost is probably around $125, +/-.

Highly unlikely that retorquing the head bolts will solve the problem at this point, but it takes so little effort that it's worth a try. About 63 lb-ft should be correct; if all are loose, go in a spiral pattern starting in the center and go in a couple of steps. Or you can just use the pattern shown in the shop manual.

And don't forget after you install a new gasket, to retorque twice, once after 30 minutes or so of running, and again after a couple of hours. Wouldn't hurt to recheck again after a few months of service. If one or more refuse to tighten to torque, chances are the stud has fatigued and is stretching - replace it (or all of them).

Owen, Just a dumb question. I have always re-torqued the head once after running the engine for a wile. My, self taught, procedure was to just start with where the bolts were and check the torque from there. Is this the right way or should you loosen them a bit and then re-torque them?