Or would it just be better to cradle the engine with a couple strap’s running underneath at the balancer and the end of the oil pan?

A little backstory; in the past I have just used the head studs and it worked great, I already pulled the engine and rebuilt it, now I’m looking at reinstallation. The reason I don’t want to remove the head studs is they have all been torqued down already and when the engine got painted they got painted over as well. If I remove it I will feel like I have to clean all the paint off of everything to get accurate torque readings.

Also the transmission will be attached when I go to reinstall.
I was looking at it and was thinking I might use straps to help protect the paint and run them from the thermostat housing area to one of the starter bolts and another place on the bell housing, would this work if I can get it to balance right?

I'd check with Gerry at Packards Southwest. I know there was some Super Eight and Twelve parts/trim that came out of an estate in California. Those parts are probably there.

I have an AUX fuel pump back by the tank that I use to prime the fuel system when the car has been sitting.

It's hooked to the switch under the dash that is run off a switched ignition source.

I usually turn the ignition on, hit the switch until I can hear the tone change in the pump when the line is pressurized, and give the accelerator a pump or two and then start it and she fires right, even after sitting all winter.

Once it starts, I turn off the Aux pump, and I never need to use that pump to restart the car as long as the car has been used in the last couple of days.

The mechanical pump has never had an issue pulling fuel through the electric pump. You need to make sure you are using the correct style of electric fuel pump. Rotary pumps, you usually can't pull fuel through. Impulse ones you usually can.

Yes, in the tech world, that computer would be seen as the Jurassic era.

There was a reference from a user "Dave" back in 2015-2018 on a forum that he had made sets in the early 2000's and still had the tooling to do so. I emailed him to see if he still exists, has the tooling or brass sets made up, etc.

Stay tuned if I hear back from him. In the meantime, did you ever locate sets of both the long and the short items?

btw, the 1937 1506/7/8 Series Packard part #'s are:

225140: qty=4/vehicle; Hood side panel moulding; long

225141: qty=4/vehicle; Hood side panel moulding; short

It's normal for the carburetor bowl to go dry over a period of several weeks, especially in summer. I wish fuel pumps came with a small external lever to allow manual operation to prime the system.

Old computer:

Dell XPS 420
Windows Vista "Home Edition".
"Intel Core 2 Quad"

Old computers/operating systems do not age well.

I lifted the last two that I loaded by wrapping a .375" chain around the engine and guesstimating the center of mass. I did use protrusions. It worked okay, but we were lifting from long-term storage and loading onto a trailer, so there were no obstacles or transmissions involved.


I would say based on my experience, for maximum control, bite the bullet and remove two head nuts and fasten the chain there and be done with it.

Some cars are runners and some just aren't so much. My '46 is a runner. Oh, she drops her fuel prime when she sits for 10 weeks, but the battery is still up because the lights come on in all of their 6 volt glory as soon as I open the door, so she has no discharge issues. No trickle charge in between. I just don't need to.


I probably need to block that end of the barn. The horses seem to make a few adjustments. They bent the antenna, that we knew. I checked it yesterday before moving it outside and the gas filler door was open. So was the trunk handle. And there were some tail hairs caught in the Packard script on the trunk, which they have also broken. Silly big goofs.


I gave them some apples anyway. The rest of it is just stuff.