Make your life significantly better by not having the factory jack. They are superlatively adapted to bending the bumper edges, particularly the fronts. Get a little floor jack and hide it behind the spare tire.

Six (6) pints, AJ.

Such information in your owner's, service manuals, both reproduced, or any Chilton's or MoTor Auto Repair Manual.

I'm a fairly new and highly reliant on the pros here for guidance. Only word of warning is that last year in November I finally broke down and bought my first Packard, or as my son calls it my midlife crisis. Little did he know that when April came around I would have another "midlife crisis" and buy another, albeit not yet drivable, Packard. I am hoping that my rate of Packard purchase slows down as I already lack garage space.

Don't give up - there are several folks I know looking for the next caretaker for their Packard. Many guys are aging out and are wanting to identify a young and enthusiastic owner.

Advise your location and keep us posted as you learn what car you might enjoy. No, no Darrin's on the radar at present....

Here are comparisons of the two regulator circuits taken from the 37-38 service manual.

Questions I would have would be on the third brush supplying voltage to the field coil. Is there a specific place it wants to be so there is full voltage output to the field that can be fully controlled by the new current and voltage sections or will the old setting still provide adequate voltage even if it was limiting max output before. Would wonder if it is better to disconnect the field inside the generator completely from that third brush and connect it to the output brush as is done on all later generators with the 3 coil modern style regulators.

Also the three coil regulators do need a good ground reference and Packard started adding a solid wire connection rather than relying on sheet metal.

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No alterations required.
Wire #18 to the ignition switch is no longer used so could be cut off or taped up at the regulator end.

Two possibilities on the spring. When 55s came out it was under the floor directly on the accelerator pedal linkage. Apparently that was not enough in some cases or maybe caused some feel issues so it was moved to a part of the linkage that was closer to the carb and anchored to the lower flange of the firewall. Some cars have both springs.

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Finally got the spin oil filter adapter in place. When now gives me more room when changes are needed and the filter is no longer smashed against the vacuum advance.

Waiting on some supplies to arrive as well so I can finish off the an interior project.

Also these little weatherstrip channels arrived that attach to the B-Pillar wooden posts.

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I measured a second water pump I have, and it is also 1 1/4 inch, so I am pretty sure this rebuilt pump from Kanter has the flange pressed on too far. Time to Remove the Rad, Fan and pully to see how I can fix this.

On another topic, anybody know what this Button retainer for the Convertible top is called, or where I can find one?

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I found it.
20 minutes after I quit looking. It was in the back seat of one of my trucks. I have no memory of carrying it out there.

I got the heater core box in place today.
Now I have a dumb question. I am almost embarrassed to ask.

Where does the spring on the throttle connect? I have been looking on here for pictures but cannot locate any. I suspect it goes there next to the firewall, in the last photo, to the throttle connections down there.

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