Hey all - wondering if anyone has a dial for the gearshift indicator on a 23rd series car. Group 3.30883, part 421707, would fit Ultramatic-equipped cars 2301-02-06-32-33. As you can see (in addition to the grand canyon of cracks on the steering), my plastic dial is all scuffed up. Wasn't sure if people just remake their own, or if it's supposed to be glass, or what. Would love to get something clear in there, though. Thanks!

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That's the exact puller I've used since the '60s and it's always gotten off any drum I have, even the huge 14" ones on Henney-Packards.

That's actually scary. That axle nut should have been torqued to around 225ft/lbs.

EDIT: Thanks again to Ross….I now understand that one brush is ground and a lot of rust on the end plate could be a big part of the issue. Got the pulley off with a puller and now also understand that the notch I was seeing is the notch for the key in the shaft. Now to do some good clean up and see if maybe that’s all it needs.

I’ve said it before, but it needs to be said again…I truly appreciate all the help from this network of people and the patience with those of us who are doing these things for the first time. I know many are likely scratching their heads and thinking “oh lord, what is this guy doing?” There is a one word answer to that….”Learning”?




Thanks…

Follow up questions…I decided to pull out the generator and take a look….

First question….the generator has two brushes that appear to be in fair condition. The springs operate well. Only one brush has a wire going to it. Is that right? I see no signs of any broken wires anywhere.












Second question….At this point, I decided I’d like to disassemble and clean things up and also see if I spot any obvious issues. The nut and washer came off the pulley fairly easily, but how does the pulley come off from here… There appears to be a retainer of some sort, but I don’t know how to remove it. Just has a single notch in it.

Back to the wiring. So I am testing each terminal for voltage to see if I can find where things are not flowing.

Getting hot reads on:
Both sides of ammeter
Both sides of ignition switch
Horn relay
Solenoid start switch for the opposite ends of horn relay and ammeter
Battery terminal for voltage regulator
All 3 terminals in the two way lamp switch


Where I am not getting a hot read
Passenger side of the starter button and opposite end where it connects to the solenoid starter
“F” “G” “A” on the voltage regulator
And same on the generator.

1. I would think the horn would work since I have voltage at all points and solid connection at horn button
2. I tested on positive and negative on all spots where I did not get a hot read
3. Everything worked prior to my wiring adventure. I did not touch move or change the regulator.

Is there a “reset” for the regulator? Or something else I need to do there? Pierre is hitting it at the one terminal it is just not flowing to the other terminals?

As far as the starter button to solenoid starter. Is there something in that connection that needs to be triggered?

Thoughts appreciated!
Ben

Didn't have a slide puller. This worked perfectly.

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Can you believe that on a car THIS RUSTY that this is all it took to get it off? Me neither. An impact gun that barely has enough torque to cinch up lug bolts properly.

Hard to complain about something being easy for once, though!!!

Though I'm sure the reason is someone messing with it long ago and not putting it back properly.

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Not sure exactly what size you need, but I know John Deere sells them for old tractors as they were used on engine head bolts to seal them.

Also, if you really can't find what you are looking for, you can buy lead roof flashing, and the use a hole punch set to make your own.

Thanks, yeah that seems to be the nuance to it.

Yeah a 6V generator is a 6V generator pretty much. As long as the generator current rating is higher than that of the regulator, and the field wiring is the same, it doesn't matter much. Pulley size...

For field wiring, most generators power the field from the armature and ground it through the regulator. Some (apparently mostly Fords) get power from the field from the regulator and ground the other side internally.

Though if you have a 3rd brush generator those work a bit differently.