AL,

Good to see you're doing a Project Blog.

Because of that, I've taken the "liberty" to add the photo of your '55 Patrician to your Registry entry.

If you don't want that photo in the registry, I can delete it.

Or, if you wish to update your Registry entry youself, you always do so by clicking on the "Make Changes" field found at the bottom left of the entry. Make the changes required then click on the "Save Changes" button found at the bottom of the entry.

In trying to get my shop back into some kind of order and putting generators and starters back on their shelf yesterday, photographing them as I did so, I was surprised to see this. Likely not the same as yours but I have no idea where it came from!

Good job! If you want undercoating, you can put it back after it's all assembled which is the way it was done originally.

The upper one in the photo? I can't say if it's right or wrong and looks like a nice double flare although the sealing surface looks quite rough. Maybe a dab of oil or grease during second step of the process would make it smoother. Could be it's fine as it is, though, so maybe wait until someone with more experience replies.

I was about to do that when I had some time last week but was not able to access the editor. Kev fixed it so once I can get back to it, that the first thing I want to do. Also, I noticed some entries that simply reference the Packard Parts book which I'll remove.

Thank you, that would be a cold motor clearance. If the valve has a greater clearance would need to get a new valve, or lap in just a bit more if very close? If I need to grind a stem, the best way? I have a mill, surface grinder, and lathe but no way to really hold a valve stem making sure it is completely flat across the stem surface by hand? I don't have the power equipment, just a hand suction cup tool.

Dimensions would be nice for confirmation but by profile it appears to be the hydraulic lifter gauge for the 356 motor. Simply remove the hydraulic plunger unit from the cam follower and insert the gauge. Insure the cam follower is on the cam lobe baseline. Insert the valve and grind the end of the stem if necessary to give a clearance of between 0.030" and 0.070". Take care with the stem grinding, you can do it nicely without specialized equipment but you want it dead flat and square to the stem, a little polish wouldn't hurt. Obviously any seat work should be done first.

Early 1950s editions of Motors Manual have a fairly detailed section specific to these Wilcox-Rich hydraulic units.

If you have power valve and seat grinding equipment, it will give a fit and finish superior to what you can achieve with hand lapping. If not and the surfaces need attention, hand lapping can give a good service life.

MPH = rpm x C (tire circumference in feet), divided by the result of F (final drive ratio) x 88.

Piston speed: stroke (in inches) x rpm, divided by 6

Or for our Euro Packard owners: stroke in mm x rpm divided by 30,000

Into the 1950s, maximum safe piston speed was 2,500 ft. per minute, tho' metallurgy, bearing design factors.

PS. While i want Jeff Adkins, Mike Chirco at Tucson Packard, and John Ulrich not to be overlooked, and though i've lauded him in the past, another shout out to Max Merritt Packard's genial, most helpful Mike Grimes, (317) 736-6233, ext. 103, mike@packardparts.com

www.packardparts.com

Sharing information with more people will insure that it will be a
more widely known. The more places for information better for the hobby as we will all be gone and if are knowledge is not shared the hobby suffers. Like we were taught as children share that's what education is sharing knowledge with others