I installed transmission oil cooler lines on a non-Packard (31 Ford Model A Roadster Hot Rod) with a SBC and GM TH-350. I used "rubber" hose for the job. It is a special cooler line rated hose. Made the job much easier than trying to fit metal tubing. Worked well for me.

One of the issues on the 41 Clipper thru 50 style linkage is lack of shifter lubrication in general and particularly of the upper 2-3 shift lever. I strongly suspect that aside from the shape of the levers, the conventional body cars may have a similar shifter construction and issue.

On Clippers there is an oil hole where by applying a few drops, oil will run down and hit the shift tongue and splines with a bit running out slots to catch the lower R-1 lever. The upper 2-3 lever has absolutely no lube provision and in addition catches any water and dirt that can condense and run down the tube to pool at the retaining clip and washer and then work its way behind the lever. Corrosion and rust seizing the upper lever to the tube is a frequent result.

To remove the Clipper shift assy the operator lever needs to be removed and also an anti-vibration wire spring pressing against a grooved piece inserted in the tube at the upper end of the steering column just below the wheel. Not sure if conventional bodies are exactly the same there but suspect similar and it does require a bit of work and disassembly to separate the shift assy from the column. I found it was easier to work on the shifter out of the car by removing column with shifter still attached.

Here are a some photos of a Clipper style linkage showing what I expect you will find. First shows rust and corrosion on the tube between the slot and retaining clip groove where the upper lever rotates. It took heat and brute force to remove seized lever from tube, second shows assy cleaned up, third is lube points, fourth is upper column and anti vibration spring.

Attach file:

---

  Clipper shift- dirty.jpeg (107.48 KB)


  Clipper shift tube.jpeg (195.89 KB)


  shift tube lube copy.jpg (199.13 KB)


  anti vibration spring.jpeg (267.42 KB)

Headliner project is coming up soon. A little cleaning and dyeing to get it closer to it's original colour.


I can pull the headliner just a little tighter to hide those rust stains.

I want to thank everyone for your assistance.

Quote:

For future reference, here's some pics of the Hudson/Nash oil pump. Note the pressure relief is on the opposite side of the casting.

Also, on this engine I did not need to remove the lower flywheel cover to remove the oil pan. I'm not sure what is in the way on the standard Packard engine.

Attach file:

---

  20240407_185559.jpg (7,159.05 KB)


  20240407_185608.jpg (7,688.07 KB)


  20240407_185646.jpg (1,828.18 KB)

Quote:

Each post is numbered; the number is itself a hyperlink to the post. Right click the number and hit "copy link address". Then paste it in your new post.

Quote:

Thanks Ross! This is a great tip and I have a 53 Patrician parts car that I can probably get some grafts from. The bigger challenge, at least for me, will be making the wheel arches so the skirts fit correctly.

You and your Super Packup were getting attention in Packard Automobile Classics. Everyone knows about the famous Ross Miller! Click here

Good Morning,
The steering column shift levers are stuck out of alignment. I have disconnected the turnbuckles, removed the u-bolt holding the shift column to the steering column and pulled the cotter key from the bottom of the threaded shaft (spacer and spring came out). I cannot get the column shift levers to separate or move independently of each other. I think the "thing" that I took the u-bolt out of has to thread down the shaft to give me clearance to separate the levers but, I cannot get the shift column far enough away from the steering column to attempt to turn it. What am I missing here guys? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Alan

Lastly, I did read all the previous threads on the shift lever issues but, never actually saw anything about disassembling the bottom of the shaft where the levers mount. Thanks

Rear window done!

Rope with soap and it went back in no problem. I was working by myself so I installed the three pieces individually.



I redrilled the holes for the little clips at the bottom of the dividers so they were correct and hold the little chrome caps straight.







All sealed up and will be good for another 71 years! I'm going to check it for leaks before putting interior back in.

Does anyone have an old 120/115 header bow that could be used as a pattern? I'm not happy with how my header bow turned out, and I need an original to copy the dimensions from.

Or, at the very least, a tracing made from the flat backside (the side facing towards the rear of the car), which will give me the overall flat dimensions and elevation. I think the one I came up with is just not tall enough when compared to others I have seen.

In other news, I got the windows in, and it helped move everything forward. The glass frame now sits against the division bar window channel with no gap. I also moved the entire vent window assembly as far forward as I could, but I still needed to make a slight relief cut in the wood B-pillar at the very bottom to sink the channel in a little bit, as it was still making contact with the window frame in that corner.

I also remade the front carpet. I needed the carpet to go up higher on the firewall and also need to cut back some of the firewall pad I made up to give more gas pedal clearance. Luckily this carpet is fairly inexpensive.