Many thanks:
Vielen dank
Bardzo dziekuje
Merci beaucoup
Muchas gracias

Happy

It looks wonderful, Karl!

The hood had dents, deformations and rust scars everywhere. Unfortunately I no longer have an English Wheel or an “ECKOLD” power former. So I had to use the old school method with a torch and heat to get the hood back to its old shape. This is very risky if you have little experience with it. You can ruin the whole picture. Thanks heaven I smooth out the dents and shrinkage spots. With a lot of work with the smoothing hammer and also with the hand iron. In any case, it only took a little bit of filler/putty to get the hood in a straight line. By the way, the hood is one of the most visually important parts when you look at a car for the first time. The Packard hood of these models is visually very striking. I used sandpaper the most on this hood...compared to other components. If you do not want distortion or unwanted waves, you should not apply pressure when sanding crosswise and always use sharp sandpaper. So I changed the paper in a quarter of the usual time and took my time.

Karl

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Does anyone have a picture of what the tail light reenforcement plates look like under the fender? Since my fenders are off a sedan, they are missing, and the prior custom fenders didn't have them either. I just need to get an idea of the general shape and construction so I can fabricate something functional.

I want to continue showing the restoration process of the "body", ... or as we say over here ... “Karosserie”). If all the components are back from the paint shop I can start rebuilding the body. Yesterday I was able to pick up the finished painted front and rear fenders. Based on the condition after removing the old layers of paint, the result is very satisfactory. As most people here know, the paint job is one of the crucial factors in the first impression and evaluation of a restoration. It can enhance the look of a good restoration or ruin it. This also applies to the work on the interior and the soft top. I've seen a lot of really good restoration work at various classic car shows where these two jobs devalued the restoration result. And I was amazed that the jury at events like “Greenwich”. “Amelia Island” and even “Pebble Beach” always had such a large tolerance range, especially when assessing the work on the interior/soft top.

I did the preparatory work up to the final top coat myself. On the one hand, because this work takes a lot of hours, which has now become almost unaffordable here in Germany. On the other hand, because I very often did not agree with the results of the professional paint shops, especially in the details. The reason for this is always time and therefore profit. If it is done correctly, the complete rebuilding of a paint job, especially the preparatory/putty/filler work, takes a lot of time. And also costs such as heating the paint booth if the specifications of the materials manufacturer are to be adhered to and no “collapses/shrinkage” of the filler surfaces are to become visible after 2-3 years. In addition, it is difficult to find a good painter because their arguments can hardly be contradicted. They say they can complete around 30-40 accident repairs in the time it takes to build up the paint on a classic car and then finish it off. This will make you 3-4 times more money. Then there would also be the costs for materials and cabin heating

All parts are painted with 2K lacquer on which additional 2 layers of clear coat were painted. This gives me the opportunity to finally grind out smaller pits and slight imperfections and to polish all surfaces, which ultimately leads to an optimal result. Since I chose a very dark red for the middle area of the body, I first had the black paint with the fender and hood painted over the entire body. This ensures that the red painted area is not brightened by the black “background”, but rather makes it appear darker, which is what I intend. This eliminates the unnecessary masking of the red color areas and improves the execution of the color transition areas.

Karl

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The whole car must have been left outside for a long time. All sheet metal parts had deep rust pits. Simply filling these up with putty would not make sense because later the putty could break in deeper in these areas than in other areas, which would lead to the typical “orange skin”. In addition, putty on the side parts of the hood in the area of the ventilation slots was out of the question anyway. So I painted all surfaces with epoxy spray filler using a spray gun and then sanded these layers back down to the sheet metal. I repeated this twice until all the rust scars were filled. I then placed the parts in the sun for 8 hours a day for 2 weeks last summer. If there is no painting booth with heating, this is one way to shrink the spray filler/putty to such an extent that further paint build-up should not cause any problems. I'm really very happy that I'll never have to do this work again... like grinding the fan slots or grinding out the fender beads.

Karl

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You can scuff and spray, that should not be an issue.

But you may want to give it a quick sealer coat as you don't want that darker blue affecting the shade of the lighter blue you are hoping for.

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No charge. I'll mail them out in the next few days.

Thank you sir! I appreciate you looking. If you do find one please feel free to reach out to me.

Yeah I found the correct mixing after looking online.

I'm going to be checking out two other places about an hour and a half away this coming weekend if they are open. One of them looks like it caters to restorers and hobbyists.

Can I spray over fresh single stage after scuffing it up? Or do I need to do another sealer layer?