Quote:

You ignore the column 10% The cups I buy online (50 pack) have separate 4:1:1 and 4:1:10% sections.

Sounds like you need to find a better supplier.

Quote:

I still think Packard intentionally put wire in these two places. All other welting on that seat cover, and the front seat cover, have plastic. 🤔

Sandblasted and painted the back seat frames today. $5 worth of paint on the frame, $50 worth of paint on the floor! 😄

Our supplier did a computer scan as well but then made final adjustments manually with spot samples to get an exact match.

It could still be a fuel supply issue, such as a pin hole in the fuel line between the pump and the tank or any other sort of leak. A non-working fuel cap vent might cause it.

It's possible the vacuum advance could cause it, or a lack of lubrication on the distributor rotor or too much lubricant on it. Too much or too little fluid in the transmission could cause it. Some automatics are very sensitive to fluid level. Some cars have the wrong dipstick in the transmission.


Long shots: A problem with motor mounts or with the throttle linkage could cause a feedback effect.

A problem with the fuel flex line or fuel pump linkage might cause it, as could a defective fuel pump diaphragm or spring or valves.

A weak or broken valve spring might give a surging effect.

Clogged exhaust?

Quote:

They used the camera on the fuel door and ran it through the computer. I think they were looking for modern paint code matches and they didn't come up with anything.

I asked the guy there how to use their mixing cup to measure 4:1:1 when it said 4:1:10%:1. He had no idea. That didn't inspire much confidence in their abilities to give me a paint match.

My 1955 Patrician with a 3.54:1 axle surges while under heavy throttle at speeds between 35 and 80 mph. It seems to usually occur while in high gear converter drive, but I have felt surging while in direct drive as well. I have never felt it surge in low gear. It's a slow surging. You don't hear it, you feel it. The car just sort of slowly lurches forward and back.

Climbing a long, steep grade at 65 MPH and roughly 3/4 throttle makes it surge. I do not know if the converter unlocks for that. If it does, I don't hear or feel it. I'm pretty sure it just grinds up in it in direct.

Rolling heavy into the throttle at 50 mph unlocks the converter and it surges the whole way on up to 80 MPH whether you keep the throttle steady or go ahead and floor it after you reach 60 MPH (flooring below 55 mph downshifts to low...don't do that). Again, I cannot tell if or when the converter locks at those speeds.

The engine has good power even while surging. It will continue pulling hard. It's not like the surging that I have experienced in other cars due to ignition or carburetion problems where they fell flat on their face if you opened the throttle more. I do not hear any misfiring. The engine feels and sounds strong, but you can feel the car surging.

Moreover, it does this regardless of the outdoor temperature. It is the same on a 20-degree day as on a 90-degreee day. It's not a form of vapor lock.

Sometimes when it's surging you can let off the throttle partially then roll back in and it's better.

I have:

1. Replaced the fuel pump.
2. Replaced the fuel line between the pump and carburetor.
3. Replaced the fuel filter.
4. Blown out the fuel line between the tank and fuel pump to make sure it was not leaking or restricted.
5. Checked the rubber fuel hose at the pump.
6. Rebuilt the carburetor (Rochester 4GC).
7. Rebuilt the engine ignition system. Coil, points, condenser, wires, plugs, all of it.
8. Driven without the gas cap in case it was sucking a vacuum.
9. Changed the transmission fluid (Type F), adjusted the bands, adjusted the shifter linkage, and adjusted the throttle linkage.

Not one of those things has altered the surging even the slightest bit.


I don't know. I'm starting to think it might be the transmission slipping, but I don't get any of the "groan" that people describe when their lockup clutch is going out. The lockups that I hear at lower speeds are always crisp and clean, but I cannot hear or feel what is going on with the clutch at higher speeds.

I'm at the "get over it and live with it" stage.

Sounds like your paint supplier didn't put much effort in matching the color to the gas filler door provided.

Our local club did a refresh on a 1940 110 that had rusted through headlight buckets and a local auto body supply store provided paint that was an exact match to one of the old buckets left with them as a sample. Once sprayed on replacement buckets there was no noticeable difference to the rest of the car.

Yeah, I should have done a test panel first. I knew the paint wasn't going to be a match from prior experience, but I thought it would at least look a little closer than what it came out as. Problem is I have very little time to work on the car and things like this set the timeline back significantly. The closest paint shop is 45 minutes away and they aren't open on weekends. Makes it very hard for me to get there. Then to spray the car requires me to mask everything like crazy because I have to shoot it in the shop with it being winter outside. But if I can find a better paint match it will be worth the effort in the end.

I'm just itching to get the interior put back together though....I have parts laying all over the place (organized though) and I want to get them back where they belong.

So we are working on a 1955 Packard 400 and we know the locations as far as the 4 in the block on the sides. Are the other 2 behind the transmission? We have not worked on one of these could use help locating. And if anyone has done a brake master cylinder on one do you know the procedure? Any help is welcomed

I bought some in September and looking at the charges on my card, it was either Tucson Packard or Merritt.