Big Kev,

The powder coating wasn't too expensive because I have a large blast cabinet in my shop and I clean all my parts prior to delivery to the powder-coater.

Last trip to the powder-coater was $125. This is what got coated for that price. (Had I had to pay for the blasting of the parts it would have been more expensive)
- Air breather (2parts)
- (4) valve covers
- all parts to the heater core assembly
-battery tray
- '56 styled spark plug holders
and some other small parts I can't seem to think of at the moment.

It will cost you more each time you change your powder coating colors too (set-up). I have yet to have any parts colored anything but 60% black.

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PackardV8,

Does not have sighting glass.

HH56,

I went with power condenser primarily because of the temps, humidity and heavy traffic in the metro-Orlando area and because of the difference in physical size of condensing units. You are right to be concerned about the extra draw on the electrical system. I switched my generator for a standard, early 1980s style GM (Delco) alternator, bought locally and converted to positive ground. The generator would keep up in normal daytime driving in heavy traffic but, at night with the lights and AC on, lights dimmed noticeably and battery charging current at low speeds and idle was insufficient. The alternator neither overcharges nor undercharges battery and lights work at steady intensity. Engine temp increases slightly when using AC but remains well within acceptable operating parameters. My engine was completely overhauled and radiator re-cored two years ago.

Kevin,

They look really good. Now much did the powder coating cost you? I need to start looking for a place as I want to powder coat various pieces.

Us straight eight guys dont have those nice Rocker Covers. The closest thing we have is on the side of the engine and covered a hot exhaust manifold!!!

Hello Everyone,

I have never been a fan of the chrome valve covers on senior Packards of 1955-1956, for no reason other than my personal preference. I do howver love the look of the 1955 black covers with ivory colored script for the seniors.

Attached are pics of one of the valve covers for my 1955 400 that I recently had redone. The valve covers were powder coated with 60% black and then I had a very skilled automotive 'pinstriper' hand paint the script with ivory paint. I was going to use the ivory paint from Hirsch, BUT the pinstriper said that paint was too soft. He instead used another brand with a harder consistency.

Best regards,

Kevin
Tucson

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Kevin, it is probably original. I would wait for the july 56 version. There are a lot of 56 parts that are not listed in the copy you are looking at. Especially ultramatic parts.

Mr.Smith, thanks for all the details and part #'s. In addition to the one you bought, there are a couple of others that look very promising.

Another question please: In using the power condenser, is there an advantage in your area vs the regular without fan? Just wondered if it was for low speed traffic or does power unit reduce radiator load significantly enough to be worth the extra 7.5 amp draw. Where I am in Calif, think we probably have approx the same temps most of time, but don't believe I have the humidity you do.

Lloyd. Did u get a sight glass with the kit?????

Not related to the cooling topic but while everyone is gathered does anyone know the THREAD PITCH for the tie rod adjusting sleeves on the front suspension of a 56????? Probably the same on all post war.

HH56,

I ordered the following parts from Classic Auto Air:

#1-1014 Heat/Cool/Defrost Box
#12-1001 Standard "O" Ring Type Drier
#5-128 Sanden (R-134) Double V-groove Compressor
#7-1001 Sanden Swing Plate
#7-182 Universal Adapter Plate
#11-1027 Power Condenser

Lines, connectors, heater control valve and defrost control came with the kit.

There is no problem routing air to the original dash vents and defroster. The AC controls (Compressor on/off, temp control, fan speed) are located on front of heater box and not difficult to reach and I am using them. Defroster and heater control valve are cable operated and are tied in to existing dash controls. Suspect that, were I inclined to spend the time doing so (and I may, later), one could shade-tree engineer the compressor/temp/fan speed controls to work with the original controls as well but, I live in Florida and it was HOT. Have driven car, both locally and a couple of 400 mile round trips on the road, for upwards of 18 months and the system more than adequately cools the car. Temp control automatically cuts compressor in and out according to set temperature. I like the system. It does the job and parts are easy to come by if one needs them (I haven't). This was my main consideration in purchasing this, somewhat pricier, package rather than some of the less expensive ones that I found.

Spring is installed and now my gas door stay's shut.