I'd try lower if possible because I don't know how stressed the glass would be. Not having tried anything like that though, I"ll bow to anyone else's opinion that may have been in same situation. What about soaking in some carburetor cleaner or carb dip and trying to get some inside bowl.

If it's the standard filter, there is a rubber composite gasket that the glass may have "melted" into. Here are a couple of picts I took when doing a modern retrofit showing the disassembled unit and the original gasket to give you an idea of what's there.

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Brian, thanks for pict. What I have is almost as you show, differences being black and the leather has 2 staples, one where yours is and one in approx middle of the bent top. Its possible mine was repainted incorrectly when the car went thru the restoration.

Wondering which missing shields you are referring to. I have one slightly curved rectangle in front of front carb choke area and another on valley cover under manifold like one next to painters knee. Mine is painted black with some kind of anti rattle stuff on top. Are there more than these? If so, would appreciate a picture.

Outwardly, things may look old school but most of the Vintage air units have very sophisticated electronic control modules that control everything via digital commands to solid state devices or pulse motors--a far cry from the old turn a knob yank a cable and open a valve or select a different resistor days.

Any chance Dad had a Chevy powered Studebaker?

Box is approx under the steering wheel or edge of front seat and about 1/3 distance between left frame rail and center of car. It's connected to L. long torsion bar by a thin bar link & levers. In 55 the limit switches are in a slightly smaller box actuated by the short transverse bar in almost the same front-back plane but more toward center of car. Here's a pict or 2 to confuse the issue further.

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Aside from repolarizing generator and changing coil & ammeter connections, nothing else should be required in an original car. A lot of cars accidentally had their batteries reversed with no ill effects on anything. The only thing I would think might warrant caution is if something like compensator switch or radio components have been modified or replaced with some of the modern solid state conversions some clubs are offering.

Another mentioned terminals for DIY harness. Several of the wiring harness makers sell individual pieces, wire, terminals, sockets, etc. Just have to search their catalog to find it.

There was a thread on the AACA forum last year on this subject of Chevy WS fitting. One poster is convinced it will, but apparently most of us Packard folks, not having the correct Chevys to play with, seem to know for sure. I think he was going to try but don't recall ever hearing whether he did.

Don't remember the exact difference where hoses are but will the 55-6 grommets fit or maybe be trimmed to shape. Steele has those.