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Re: 1954 Packard Pacific 359 L8 radiator / blueprint
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From Fresno CA
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I do not have any plans or drawings for the radiators but there is a possibility the blueprints might be available from the Packard Motor Car Foundation. I believe Bruce Blevins is still the person in charge of caring for them but if not, someone will surely know who is current and how to reach them. You would need to supply the part number for the radiator you are looking for and have him see if it is one of those available for copy and sale.

The only other info I can provide is Packard specs in the April, 1954 Vol 28 #4 Service Counselor has the flow rate for the senior 359 radiator at 31.25 GPM.

Posted on: 11/8 9:21:24
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Re: 1950 Packard door hinge
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According to the parts book Group 30.310, all 22-23 series used the same front hinges but there was a production change. After the 22nd series was introduced they found the doors on convertibles (and maybe the two door clubs) were so heavy the doors tended to slip or drop. The reason for the slipping was determined to be the hinge bolts were somewhat small so they made new hinges that went from 5/16 bolts to 3/8. Those earlier cars had a field mod to install hinges with larger screws and even tack weld the hinges to the door metal. http://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SC-VOL22NO7.pdf

Along with that change other suggested mods in the door to reinforce the hinge mount area was made and in later cars stronger plates for the larger screws were made available. No idea exactly when that happened and is only mentioned to suggest you might want to concentrate your search for replacement hinges on the later production cars. As long as the locator bolt or dowel pin was installed inside the door loose bolts are not likely the issue but if the locator pin broke or fell out you might also investigate the possibility of the internal hinge bolts being loose rather than the problem be due to worn hinges.

If it is worn hinges replacement pins were available so perhaps the hinge leaves themselves are not too worn and only a pin replacement is something that could be investigated.

Posted on: 11/6 10:38:52
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Re: 1938 V12 1608 Voltrage regulator
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2007/4/20 17:54
From Fresno CA
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We don't have a twelve parts list on site to verify the part number for the regulator screws to see if they are the same as the other or later models used but here is what is listed for the lesser models in that prewar period.

Typically the number after the dash would be the number of threads per inch such as 10-32 or 10-24. Almost always found on machine screws it is not commonly used on the coarse sheetmetal screw type threads although it can be.

Attach file:



jpg  regulator mounting.jpg (41.54 KB)
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jpg  screws.jpg (192.45 KB)
209_5fa47712c5590.jpg 770X1052 px

Posted on: 11/5 14:06:59
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Re: Dadís 5677A
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If you are going to paint the tank or use an old sender do yourself some favors before reinstalling it and the tank.

First is check the sender with an ohmmeter connected between the mounting flange and terminal to ensure it is good and the value is correct at approx 73 ohms empty and 10 full. Be sure the numbers are changing SMOOTHLY as you move the float from empty to full and back to empty. If they reach a point where the numbers suddenly change direction or drop completely and then resume the previous value and continue the change, the support the resistance wire is wound on could be warped and letting the wiper lose contact. Erratic numbers results in a jumpy gauge and sometimes a non functioning gauge if there is a spot that loses contact completely.

If the sender is good make sure there is no paint on the area where the sender mounts and on the tank where it touches the body. After a tank has been removed, worked on and reinstalled many have found ground issues so needed to drill a small hole in the excess metal at the center weld flange at one of the corners to attach a small ground wire connecting the tank to the frame or body.

If you are not a purist it might also be to your advantage to cut a hole in the trunk floor before reinstalling the tank so you can access the sender. That way the tank does not need to be removed again should you need to replace or do more work on the sender. The hole can be covered with a plate and the mat will hide it from view so only you would know it is present.

If you are interested in a hole, here are some dimensions Ross provided. I believe this hole was cut on a 51-4 body but the dimensions should be very close to those needed on a 55-6 body. You might want to verify though.

Attach file:



jpg  51-6 trunk opening dimensions1.jpg (447.71 KB)
209_5fa2e2ab33ef0.jpg 1408X1056 px

jpg  51-6 trunk opening dimensions2.jpg (451.74 KB)
209_5fa2e2b874bcd.jpg 1408X1056 px

Posted on: 11/4 9:00:08
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Re: Have any '55 Clipper cloth? Green
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2007/4/20 17:54
From Fresno CA
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Here is the business and his email. Joel (packards1) also has an ebay store and you can probably reach him thru there too. https://www.ebay.com/str/packards1

Attach file:



jpg  packards1.jpg (69.57 KB)
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Posted on: 11/3 16:20:38
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Re: 1955 Dealer Awards Info?
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Quote:
I will try scanning.
Sometimes the scanning pixelates the images.


Does your scanner software have any kind of descreening option. If so using one of the settings will generally get rid of the pixellation or moirť patterns the scanning produces that look like blocky dots over the photos.

Scanner software is different between brands but here is what the built in MacOS scanning portion of the Preview app has to offer for descreening. You can choose a value depending on the quality or line rate of the printed photo to mostly get rid of the artifacts. I don't know if Windows has a built in option like MacOS but Epson scanning software has something similar as does Canon and most other brands but maybe with different names.

Attach file:



jpg  descreen1.jpg (31.48 KB)
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jpg  descreen2.jpg (28.57 KB)
209_5fa18b83f09cc.jpg 510X194 px

Posted on: 11/3 8:57:43
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Re: Sending unit for 1955 Caribbean fuel tank
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2007/4/20 17:54
From Fresno CA
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Kanter still shows them as available on their website. I believe they sold out of repro tanks but are they sold out of senders as well?

https://www.kanter.com/productdetail.a ... ctCode=447&Router=Catalog

Posted on: 11/2 9:16:00
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Re: 1956 Carribean Carburetor Heat Shield For Driver Side Needed
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2007/4/20 17:54
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They are Caribbean only items but I seem to recall many years ago one of the club regions was considering a repro since as O_D mentioned, often one or the other goes missing. Agree with him that they should not be too hard to make. Perhaps someone would know if the repro ever happened and which region. If no one can help with an idea on NOS or repros then finding them may be difficult since Caribbeans are so rare the parts cars are even restored so not very common.

I can't say from the view in the photo you posted but at a quick glance you might have the upper square one mounted incorrectly on the right side of your carbs. There is nothing terribly special about either one of them although the upper would be the harder one to make because the mounting point is a tab stamped out of the center of the metal and bent outward. The stamping might prove difficult to do in a home shop but welding or brazing on a tab could work. The lower one is just flat sheetmetal with a couple of bends and holes at the top. The mounting tabs could be bent out from easy to access and work metal on the bottom edge. With a drawing showing the dimensions and a couple of photos, if you could not make it yourself a sheetmetal shop probably could make a fair repro.

Posted on: 11/1 13:40:39
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Re: 1956 Carribean Carburetor Heat Shield For Driver Side Needed
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The two correct shields are shown in this thread http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/mod ... id=208480#forumpost208480

The lower and larger one for the lifter valley and manifold space is shown in the photo in post 28 and the small square one on the front carb for the choke housing is in post 33 on the next page of the thread.

Posted on: 11/1 12:26:47
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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2007/4/20 17:54
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Oops! I canít attach the cropped photo as it gives an Protector detects attacking actions error.

Don, If the cropped photo that had the problem has a title like Apple normally puts on their full or partial screen captures it could be that the time numerals separated by periods are causing the protect issue and need to be edited out. The site sees the title as a stand alone element and the number and dots string as an IP address that might be trying to hijack the post. For example, if this was a photo title it would fail Screen Shot 2014-08-23 at 4.43.35 PM.jpg and this one would not Screen Shot 2014-08-23.jpg.

On the Fram filter you will need to determine which port is inlet and which is outlet. Some Frams such as those Packard used prewar had the inlet on the bottom with a flow restricting orifice in one of the brass fittings on the tubing going to the inlet side to limit flow to roughly 10% of the total available at the bottom port. The filter element should have a center opening that is sized to be snug to the pipe and bottom would sit on large washer like base near the bottom of the pipe. There would also be another washer on the end of a spring attached to the cap to seal the top of the filter and allow for different lengths. The spring also keeps the element pushed tight on the bottom seat. That snug center opening in the element and the top and bottom washers is what prevents the flow from bypassing the element. Oil enters the pipe, flows out to enter the element at the center and flows thru collecting around the outside of the filter then out to the engine. With that flow direction the small center area could clog quickly so some of the prewar filters for the 356 engine had a relief valve at the top of the pipe what would open if the filter clogged. The oil could escape the pipe and flow over the top of the element and back out. That style was not in use very long before Packard changed the plumbing and return flow back into the engine and eliminated the valve.

The black one with the small holes in the center pipe is probably postwar and correct for the car. On the postwar canisters, the function is about the same but inlet is on the side. Oil enters and surrounds the filter element then passes thru to the center pipe and back to the engine. Those filter element centers are also snug to the pipe and has the washer like base and spring top. For the postwar filters the supply side orifice in the fitting was eliminated and the small holes in the pipe are sized to provide the flow restricting orifice. They also ensure only a limited amount of oil (again approx 10%) can pass thru the filter and get out. Dirt and sediment fall to the outside of the element and because the washer the element sits on does not reach all the way to the sides it can collect at the bottom of the canister around the pipe.

Posted on: 10/31 14:30:47
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