Keep in mind that paint chip cards will age as well due to things like dirty storage, smoke, etc.

Looks okay to me. Packard went crazy for blues in 1941. Either Barola Blue or Crescent Blue is my guess.

Dear Joe:

The correct procedure is to use a seal puller. But given some of those seals are not available very careful tapping with a drift will coax them out without damage to the bearing cage or seal.

In the flat rate service world nobody gets paid for such procedures so they blast away and replace all parts. But the seal puller is still the fastest method and guarantees the bearing is not damaged. You can buy a puller at any auto parts store that carries tools.

Actually the correct procedure for jump starting is to hook up the cables with both motors off and let them sit for five minutes or more. Just like a jump pack. Too much amperage from a running vehicle can result in an explosion.

The match mark comment is a very good note.

I remember a Darrin years that had repetitive water pump problems and I'll bet it was running a non-matching water pump pulley and fan.

Kavenagh had it.

You must be right because I saw a picture of it when it was blue. Then when I was talking to Bea one time she told me it was always red. Don't ask for the picture. It belonged to a long gone CCCA guy. When I saw that car it was so long ago that I can only remember it as dark.

However, red vs blue is a little different than testing the limits of garish.

I don't really think much about Packard engineering because my modern car gets me where I want to go. I worry more about the people who worry about how whether Cadillac was a better car.

I love that factory picture!

I love the crooked bumper!

Once I was dealing with this madman who got all pissed off because I put a Packard together the way it was built. One tailight was slighlty different. Well he just held a grudge against me for not agreeing with him and refusing to cut down a nice original casting on a milling machine, and cutting up the original fender and special taillight housing bracket. I told him if he didn't like the way Packards were built he should buy a Cadillac. When it was done it looked like it had gone to a flat rate body shop for some insurance work. It was Terrible. A total butcher job.

A couple of months later in comes an original V-12 with original Packard lacquer and white striping, interior, chrome, the works; and crooked tailights from the factory.

Anyway, I always thought Bob Turnquist's 840 Individual Custom Dietrich looked great with light fenders and a dark body. That car was originally maroon body with beige fenders, but I thought the silver fenders was a better choice.

As for the Jepson touring car, Bea told me she hated what they did to it. I believe that car originally was a green or olive combo with either black or dark green fenders when new and dark olive leather. The original colors were hidden all over it when George had it so I really don't understand why it was so overdone. Nobody cares about originality. Well at least there is one Packard with the original colors - hint: it's red and has painted wheels.

However, Charlie Clancy's 37 Super Eight Converitble Sedan came brand new in baby blue, with Navy blue leather. It was a special order and so carried the Dietrich body plate.

Of course I can't afford this stuff, so I guess the hot rodders will cut everything up. And I've sure seen a lot of em.

Dear Mark:

If it is a long block it is the same motor. And probably the same for a unit replacement engine. Except for the motor number. They had some hubub about special crankcase ventilation, but that is probably more Packard bull. They could lay on the bull when they wanted. You know things like "The most advanced automatic transmission ever with lighting smooth quick shifting Ultramatic."

An NOS anything will run much better than old rebuilt blocks, so regardless of displacement, it is special.

Dear Traum:

I think a good place to start is by dividing the circuit.

To do that remove both tail light bulbs, turn on the park lights and check the source voltage with a test light. If both pins have voltage then you have a harness problem.

Move on to the backup light switch and brake light switch. Check both for voltage before and after the switch. If the test light indicates voltage on both sides, disconnect the wires and check for voltage. If you have voltage on both sides then you have a harness problem. Otherwise test the switch for a closed circuit.

Move up to the headlight switch. Isolate the park light post and check for voltage. Disconnect the wire and check the brake lights. If everything is haywire then look for a harness problem.

Grounds are easy to check. Make up a long jumper wire and run it from the battery ground post. With the park lights on use a voltmeter check the voltage between the ground post and the lamp socket base (ground). If you have more than .4 volts (.2 ideally) you have a ground problem.

Finally, with the lights on get under the car and wiggle the wires from front to back. If the lights start flickering then you have found the harness problem. Tip: Put a stand up mirror in your line of vision the shows the action at the back of the car.

As well consider a disconnect switch if not already installed. If the car manages to catch fire it will burn to a cinder.