I bought a 25’ roll of the copper nickel, and a good flare tool and did them all myself. I found the Cu-Ni very easy to work with, and by starting from a roll, I had no extra joints.

Eastwood has a pro flaring tool that looks really good, although I haven’t used it.

Good luck, whichever way you go.

Awesome! Glad you found it, and glad it was so simple!

Enjoy the fruits of your labor this summer!

Agree- it’s looking good!

I know you probably don't want to hear this, but it might be a good idea to start looking for a spare axle assembly.

I agree, whatever caused the damage to your rear end seemed significant. It might be worth finding some spare parts in case your axleshaft or housing is bent.

I know you don’t want to do it , but I would pull the drivers side down and replace the wheel bearings. Keep the old ones in case the problem resumes.

I’m guessing you either have an unusual failure mode, or something is out of tolerance because of how you had to fix the warped drum. Good luck!

If the U-joint is bone dry and the needle bearings have rusted away, that could make a squeal too. I've seen that before, in a failed modern u-joint.

It might be worth disassembling that u-joint, and inspecting it. U-joints are pretty cheap, typically.

All good suggestions.

I would:

1. Check differential fluid.
2. Remove both wheels and see if the noise goes away. If it does, but one back on at a time. Try swapping the wheels.
3. If you still haven't found it, use a stethoscope, or even a long-handled screw driver, to try and narrow down on the noise.

Found a shop who can flow test the radiator, so I pulled that out Friday night. It was quite a bit easier than I thought it would be!

1. Drain coolant.
2. Remove hood, and hood support rods. You may have to flex them a little to pull them with the front clip bolted up. Watch the paint!
3. Remove upper radiator hose and thermostat housing.
4. Remove fan, water pump pulley, belt, and water pump.
5. Remove large nut from underside of car, remove 6 small bolts holding radiator to radiator frame.
6. Grasp the radiator upper tank, angle the top back, and pull up.

I used some moving blankets to cover the fenders and grill. I think I had less than an hour in the job, but I've also had the water pump off and on several times in the last year, so I'm getting pretty proficient.

I also pulled the water distribution tube again. Still clean, but there was some sort of warning label in the very last hole! The tube was checked clean about 8 months ago, so not sure where this label came from. Wonder what else is flowing around in my cooling system???

While I have the radiator out, I'm going to make an adaptor that will let me hook up a hose at the rear block drain and the heater hose connection, and back flush the block out of the thermostat housing and the block. I'll flush through each outlet individually, then both together. I may run some more evaporust through just the engine as well, depending on how long the radiator shop takes, and what a visual inspection reveals. I bought a small camera, so I'm going to try and inspect the block via the water distribution path.

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Thanks for the tip! Sharing info never hurts.

I love working on the car without the clip, but right now my garage measures 13x23, so there is not room to have the clip pulled and still get everything in the garage! I was able to pull the radiator last night, without pulling the front clip, and it was quite a bit easier than I thought it would be.

Also- the service letter says not pulling the front clip saves 36 minutes???? More like about a day!