Yes, you will get as many opinions as responses on the oil. Recently, a petroleum engineer lead a discussion on blends and additives in oils currently on the market. I won't bore you with the detailed minutia - the net result is oil today is far greater than what was available 70 years ago. The GENERAL consensus is to run 15w-40 (diesel) oil with an true SG rating. (Shell Rotella-T is commonly available) Some 15w-40's have it, some don't - you need to understand the SAE rating circle on the container, like knowing how to read the sidewall of a tire. And yes, do exactly as JW says periodically to pull the pan and check/clean the screen, especially if your car is not equipped with an optional oil filter.
...and please...start shopping for a correct speedometer. The 37 Chevy one in there now just pains me to look at it...

Oh, and the common opinion on the insert in the roof was limitations on manufacturing the roof in one piece, then how to brace...fast forward to 1938 for the resolution on that.

DAF

Ahh...another leaking 35-37 Pump. I should write a technical paper on these....
Up to 37 (no we are not going to talk about early 38s), the pump has a graphite rope packing which, when tightened, is supposed to keep the water from leaking past. Not unlike the old faucets. Must be the plumbers got to design automotive waterpumps "in the beginning". Finally, the engineers got tired of leaky waterpumps and designed a spring loaded seal on a ball bearing shaft, but I am getting ahead of myself. Back to the 35-37 pumps. There is a grease cap at the front and rear of the waterpump casting. The pump is designed to have some lubrication here, otherwise the shaft will run dry and scorch, leak, etc. So it is important to keep these caps lubricated, now on to leaking. The packing nut can be tightened to try to alleviate leaking, but bear in mind that some seeping is considered normal and acceptable. There is no "spec" for torque on the packing nut, it really becomes a how tight is tight exercise. As for adding packing, the key is adding, not replacing. If I recall, the most basic 1/4" rope packing can be bought almost anywhere. Get a variety of sizes if possible, the stuff is cheap, and stick with the plain old fashioned graphite rope, not the newfangled teflon stuff. It is not a fun job to add packing, first you have to be able to loosen the packing nut all the way to get into the pump. Then you have to have just the right size to wrap around the shaft and somehow cram inside the cup shaped nut. PITA. Yes, go ahead and remove the fan first. By now your back is sore, your knuckles shredded (see the current post on replacing the waterpump), and you're ready to throw in the towel and simply replace the pump, thinking that will solve the leaking. Not necessarily so... as the packing has to "settle" in on a new pump, then usually be tightened, again. And don't forget to add lubricant to the grease caps.
Since you already know that the waterpump is probably "good", hopefully just a matter of learning the intricacies of the old packing style pumps...such fun.

Keep us posted.

The heater hose connection is to a threaded hole in the water pump at the inlet - some pumps did not have this hole, particularly early 35's, and an inline connection was spliced in, often into the top hose. I can post a picture if you are not sure what I mean. The hoses themselves do not need to be bought from Packard vendors specifically. The radiator hoses are 1 1/2" diameter, and the heater hoses are 5/8". Nothing sexy. Should be available at your local farm tractor supplier or regular discount auto parts store. Failing that, a plumbing supply house....

Removing the fan is pretty straightforward, just be sure there are lockwashers in place when you reinstall. Experience talking there.

As for jacking up the engine, you shall soon enough understand that suggestion.

I had a few waterpumps rebuilt recently, so I have fresh and ready to ship, and, to entice, free shipping. Not in primer, as they should be painted with Packard green engine paint, which I haven't gotten around to yet. But I will spray with Rustoleum primer on request.

At first, I was going to ask Kevin to delete this posting as no public thanks were necessary. In fact, it was Kevin who insisted on picking up the tab for dinner. Then the more I thought about it, I figured if Kevin enjoyed a little Packard social time when traveling, it might encourage him to reach out to others when he is "in the neighborhood". I for one recognize the huge value this site has, both technically and socially. Maybe we need a forum topic, "Where's BigKev?"
And as for Kevin in the rumbleseat, first, he admitted he had never been in a rumbleseat, so that has been taken care of, and second, there's a heck of a lot more legroom for someone who is 6'4" back there!

One more thought would be to arrange a gathering during a sanctioned Packard event, which may promote further participation by unaware Packard people. For example, simply a cash bar happy hour "sponsored" by Packardinfo...

Timing appears good for weather and non-interference with other major events., though over a long weekend might encourage better driver participation. As for me, what is the nearest major airport?

DAF

For the right price, I'll buy it. So would you, obviously.
Yes, I am a serious cash buyer, Cash, Truck and Trailer ready.
Per recommendation, best to PM me, as Kevin says we shouldn't post email or phone numbers...

It is possible to retrofit a late model (mid 80's) Toyota 5spd box into the Packard, but it not for amateurs...you gotta be willing to compromise something.
Honestly, I'd think you'd be best to get used to a non-syncho 1st gear, or on second priority, install a hill holder/line-lock if you are having trouble launching from hills.

Two quick armchair comments - first, have you checked the accuracy of your dash gauge ( I have alternated original and common aftermarket gauges when doing diagnostic testing), and second, please confirm that you removed and cleaned the water distribution tube when you rebuilt your engine.
Can you please post a picture/details of your electric fan installation?

Mal - I mistakenly believed what is said in the Chatroom stays in the Chatroom, so I will no longer throw (what will become perpetual) darts. The snubber project started out as a fun challenge - and has morphed into something else. We have identified the perfect replacement, slightly larger heavy duty unit (note where the original is often found bent), however I have NOT been able to find a machine shop to cut down the mounting post to the correct dimension, and also LH threading the stem has been a request resulting in blank stares. I'd look harder for a shop to do this, but the financials of marketing a replacement snubber may diminish the value of my retirement nest egg of the worlds largest inventory of NOS snubbers.

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