In regards to the E85 mandate, For those in Calif, be prepared. An article in todays paper says those of us in the San Joaquin Valley air basin district will be paying $12 more on each car registration starting next year to pay the EPA penalties because of missing the deadline to reduce emissions. Goes on to mention a court challenge is expected but if fee gets the go ahead, then LA area's South Coast air district already plans the same. Not sure how many districts we have out here but rest assured, if one finds a way to get more money, all will eventually. And a saying goes, Calif leads the nation--in bureaucracy & BS regs at least-- so those in other states with pollution problems that follow Calif leads will most likely get touched too. Whether it cleans the air or not, someone is convinced it does and we will have it.

EDIT: As to the Hydrogen, there was a splashy announcement when the guvinator took office that he has going to have fill stations up and down the state. As usual, politics and money got in the way. As far as I know, only a few experimental cars are running around--usually in a convoy with press coverage--& there is a fill station only here or there. As I understand it, the car mfgs have seen no need to push the program aggressively or make the cars, the fill stations are expensive and no cars to take advantage of them and oil co's are working against it. There was a plan to require a significant number of cars sold here to be low or zero emission by a certain date, but that was watered down -I think to almost nothing- because someone would have to pay for it and no one wants it out of their pocket.

It unscrews. You need a specially shaped wrench--either the KMO 608 or something more like the later one. The earlier version had a much shorter handle and not sure on angle. Believe the poster who modified a standard open end to make one said handle on his was about 5 inches long, wrench end could be no more than 3/16 thick or more than 3/8 wide and size of hex was 1 7/16. He also mentioned without the angle, the fill plug had to be removed on the OD he was working on.

The later 51 version shown as comparison

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When West gets your pictures, if you will also look in the 35-41 parts manual, fenders and runningboards sect 7, there are part and group numbers for the screws used on the various models and splashers. In the Utility section 50, under the group numbers there are descriptions, drawings, and dimensions given for most of the screws used in a Packard. The part number will give the actual dimension of a particular screw.

I think most of us just grin, bear and grimace. Thinking about the cost just depresses.

Mal's picture is labeled:
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Mal, you are the master of the understatement.

If you have a good strong vacuum at the wipers at idle, then the vacuum pump is probably OK. It's in series with the manifold vacuum source and doesn't do much of anything but act as a pathway in normal operation. When you are at a load or under acceleration and manifold vacuum drops below what the vacuum pump can provide, then the vacuum pump is stronger and provides the vacuum to wipers. You can test it by disconnecting the hose going to the manifold at pump and see how much is left at the wiper motor. It won't be as strong as manifold provides but if not there or very weak, then the pump or hoses might be leaking and could need attention as well.

Not knowing what you have exactly, unless someone has cut the connector off and hard wired it, the "boot" should be a plastic or hard rubber inline connector similar to this replacement type sold by Restoration Specialties. Normally, there is a bullet connector on each wire and they will disconnect. Because water could get in and corrode the terminals, Packard eliminated the ones in the harness proper after some cars were built but the governor still had one since it was a serviceable item and needed to be removable.

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The wiper motor. They have several paper and rubber gaskets as well as leather or felt seals on the paddle edges which tend to dry out or wear from use. The lube might rejuvenate them but if paddle seals are excessively worn, it won't help much. If you do need a rebuild, Ficken Wipershttp://www.wiperman.com/ comes very highly recommended.

A lot of the governors came with two wires and were used with electromatic clutch. There should be some faint markings AD is overdrive and EC is the clutch. If those can't be seen, the clutch wire (unused and just poke it out of danger if you don't need it) is the one coming out of a sort of raised enclosure toward the edge and the OD wire is the one attached to a terminal and exposed. You should be able to disconnect from the governor connector and ground the harness end. The solenoid should try to energize. If not, look for a black plastic connector in the loom between the governor and main harness. They were eliminated as a source of intermittent problems but some cars had them. If still no luck, would suspect the kickdown switch.

I know the governor is hard to access and Packard had a special wrench. There are some prior threads where one poster made one by cutting and bending an open end wrench and gave instructions.

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Lubrication might help. Some have had success but it's also possible it is just time for a rebuild. If you try the lube, several have recommended vacuum pump oil and others have used air tool oil in place of the Trico lube. Check out the instructions for lubing and one on hose collapse in the service counselors. There are several pertaining to wipers here.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/serviceinfo/catindex.php?cat=23&series=3