Somebody out there must of rebuilt one of these units before? Any thoughts?

I forgot to mention that if lockwashers are used on suspension or engine or other high vibration/impact areas then do not use the cad plated lock washers. Use a lock washer that is NOT plated.

Never had mine apart so can't comment with certainty but I'd suggest a look at the picture in the parts book. The nuts are special elongated nuts to give maximum thread contact and thread slightly into a recess in the axle. Washer details are less than clear from the picture but you might browse the parts list and learn more.

It is possible that Packard may have used some kind of self locking nut like a stover nut. Don't know what a stover nut is, but locking nuts like fibre-lock etc. weren't used by Packard in that era and perhaps were a later development. Where extra security was required for a nut, typically a deep castellated nut was used, and for bolts such as main bearing bolts, they had drilled heads and were cross-wired.

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The ribbed side trim is actually stainless steel.

I often wondered if the factory or supplier had used some sory of stencil, but it seems impossible to do with longer pieces. I like Howard's thoughts about a roll process better.

Most of that black paint was lost on so many cars that I'm not surprised to see it simply polished up (with no black inlay) on plenty of restored cars.

I've also seen cars where the owner tried to carefully lay down pinstriping tape. That's effective for short pieces such those on the front fender, but it's tough to keep so many lines of tape pefectly parallel on long runs like the doors and rear fenders of the Four Hundred hardtop.

Thinking back to Howard's idea of original production, there is a company that makes a striping tool that utilizes a roller and has a guide arm:

http://www.beugler.com/beta.html

That might yield better results than stripe tape or hand-striping with a brush.

Although generally the answer is no, they won't work --it all depends on the minimum pull in voltage and current requirements of the particular relay and some might under the right circumstances.

If you want to go the relay route, here is info on 6 v relays.https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=28404#forumpost28404

WAIT a minute!!!! Don't necessarily REPLACE the flat washers. Simply place a lock washer BETWEEN the flat washer and nut.

Check the manual or parts book to see if Packard used a flat washer in this location. I doubt it. If they didn't use a flat washer then u can eleminate the flat washer and use just the lock washer. It is possible that Packard may have used some kind of self locking nut like a stover nut.

IT doesn't really matter what type of LOCK washer or LOCK nut is used but it would nice to know what Packard used in production. Usualy, among all mfg'ers in heavy suspension parts only a lock washer is used.

--=*=-- CHECK THE REST OF THE CAR for loose nuts and bolts !!!!!!

LOck washers or somekind of lock nut, or in some cases under extreme heat conditions either HARDENED flat washers or stover nuts are used.

Nuts and bolts will almost always loosen up on ANYTHING subject to vibration or shock due to impact.

About the only place a locking fastener device of somekind is not used is for sheetmetal applications.

I'm having trouble trying to understand why you would need relays to do what you want. Run a switched wire(either by your headlight switch or other)to your running light filaments. Then a wire from you brake switch through a directional signal unit to your brake filament. I have dual filament bulbs in my 38 and the above system works just fine.

Excellent photos, guys!!!

Thx

Morning all,

Good point re. spring washers. I rechecked all the washers and they are flat ones. I will replace them with spring type ones.

Thanking you.

Pat

Hello All....

Well...I've been getting creative.

I am wanting to do the following.

Include a relay system to help add turn signal/hazzard, brake, and parking (running) lights. I currently have dual filament bulbs installed, one in each of the four corners of the vehicle.

The vehicle is positive ground, 6 volt.

An easy solution would be to add a second light to the rear housings, but that would be difficult at this point.

I have been unsuccessful at locating 6 volt relays for this, but 12 volt relays are numerous.

Will a heavy duty 12 volt (30 or 40 amp) relay work in a 6 volt environment?

I have thought about using resistors, but once again, I haven't found much.

I knew I should have been an electrical engineer.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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