I should clarify, i only touched up the needles and some of the marks on the clock that turned out that you couldn't even see once installed. The needles were the worst part as far as not coming out how i wanted. I would white them for sure if i did again, then glow in the dark over that, because they get lit by light shinning on them from the edge.

The front lenses, i would just find a way to make the stuff flow as well as possible so that it laid well and didn't look clumpy like some parts of my needles do.

For any car over 5k, i go straight to ebay. Not a lot of people with serious money shopping craigslist for classics, and if you are looking for a rare car that you would drive several states for, someone has to be checking all of the craigslists and not everyone knows how to do that.

Here's some good advice: DON'T set a reserve thousands below what you're willing to get, it's annoying and wastes time with mini-bidders who, if they do hit reserve, will back out.


If you want 15k for a car but would accept 14k, start the auction at 14K, be happy if it sells, and be excited if it goes past that. No reserve, no bs, put as many pics as you can and as much info as you have. List links to what other cars have sold for and explain why yours is a better deal. If it doesn't sell, it's usually free or cheap to just keep re-listing it. After the first auction doesn't get bidders, people will start low balling, and the action will start. It generally takes me a month to sell a car on ebay worth more than 10K, if it's a realistic price.



Tire Kickers:
"if handled with courtesy and respect."

Online, you'll get tire kickers who haven't even seen the car! I was selling a mustang for 13K, would take 12, and could sell as high as 15 on a lot. It was lower miles, better options, and better condition than most in that bracket. Got a million 8.5 and 10 offers, telling me that it was a fair offer and i should take it. I told most politely that if they only had that to spend, that they should look at a v6 auto mustang, not a v8 stick. The ones that offered below 8.5, i told them it was an insult, that they couldn't afford a mustang if that's where they were shopping, and to get educated before making offers.

Sold the car for 12.5 in about a month by just saying no thank you and stressing why it was a better deal than most.

On my 50, it's fairly easy to get the whole dash cluster out. You will rub and work against the steering column metal shield, so cover that, or think about dropping the mount on that so you can get it out of the way.

Once it's out, fixing the clock and doing repaints is a breeze, and you can check all the bulbs. Expect some wrist contortioning to get the couple bolts holding it in, out. I'f i recall...6 bolts max holding it in, and then the wiring/speedo cable.

I used said paint with good effect, however it dries slightly translucent, and it is kind of snotty in texture. IF i had a steady hand and were to do it again, i'd paint whatever you're painting in white first, a nice flat, brite white. Then i'd put a light coating of this OVER what you painted. It would glow off the white and really light up, and still be crisp during the day.

I will say, it maintains that erie greenish glow like the stock paint, but if you used white behind it, i'm not so sure it wouldn't be a brighter cleaner gauge.

"torque converter drive to direct drive--which is no problem for driving."


Wouldn't that cause the transmission to crazy overheat?

Also do a casual check for vacuum leaks, and just for fun, if you have a fuel filter in line somewhere, check/clean it. If you're adventurous, you can take the top of the carb off and see if there's an abnormal amount of grit in the bowl or inlet clogging anything up like the float valve.

Generally, others here will tell you to hook up a vacuum gauge, get the car warm, set the idle if you can, and start adjusting the idle mixture screws, usually on the front lower part of a carb, one at a time.

Screw in until it starts to stumble, screw out slowly and watch gauge until you get maximum vacuum, then back in til the needle moves down some, then back out so you can find the position where you just reach maximum vacuum.

Do this back and forth 2 or three times, resetting the idle if it gets too high or low as you do it.

If it's running too rough, look for other carb/manifold issues, or timing/ignition issues and fix those, then return to the carb.

There are a ton of axles in that width, but when you're all said and done rebuilding another axle to put in there (why put a used rear in without new seal, bearings, etc.) by the time you're done, and all the time it took adapting parking brake cables and bleeding and adjusting things and whatnot, it's just better to buy new gears for your axle. And since you're driving the car now, you already know if there's anything else you need to attend to (whine, noises, leaky seals, etc.)

Paul's car might as well be mine, only mine is just an eight, no super or custom to speak of. Same color though, and same gorgeous wheels!

I do like the style of your car, it screams drive me more i think than most of the other nicer cars you see at car shows. That's a car that doesn't mind some rain and maybe a fast getaway car!

Quote:

I remember as a kid my dad was working on a blown diesel two stroke truck engine...detroit diesel i believe?

If i recall, he said if it backfired it could start in reverse, burning engine oil up and running wide open with the exhaust as a wide open intake. Only way to shut it down was to put a board over the exhaust.

Also, these guys list some packard application dual voice cone speakers:


http://www.taymanelectrical.com/dvc.htm