Dave (A.K.A. 32Model901),

I apologize for taking so long to get back to you, but thanks for the pictures. There is nothing like a photo to say something.

Do you know how wide the pin striping and do you have any closeups of the wheels?

Dave,

Thanks for the quick response. I dropped an email to Jim and will be contacting Skip in the library at the Nethercutt Museum.

I've searched the site in an attempt to determine what the pinstriping should look like on the car. What I'm interested in is where it should be and line widths.

Can anyone out there help me or point me in the right direction?

Thanks - Marty

Pull a spark plug and examine it. If the car is running way to rich it will be a sooty. This assumes that it is not also burning a lot of oil, in which case it would be oily and you would be able to tell.

An easy test that should take less than 5 minutes to perform.

I would not let the oxalic acid sit in the system for an extended period of time. I would drain it, flush with water several times and then use tyhe neutralizer. Re-flush several times and check the system out with water.

On a note of interest, just water in the system will be twice as efficient in removing heat from the engine than would 50% coolant/water. If you don't have a heating problem with just water, but you do with anti-freeze coolant, I would suggest using No-Rosion and going with straigh water.

I would flush the system with oxalic acid, which in my opinion is the best system to use on a car. Its too bad that Du Pont stop making their kit that had it in. I've posted eles where on this site how to go about using it.

Or if all else fails you could sell me the car - I have $500 waiting to spend on it. (LOL)

Assuming the plastic insulators are in good shape, could there be a bare spot in the wire as it goes down the tube? A short there would make the horn turn on.

Restoration Specialties Supply has spring washers, but you can also get them at any number of online stores that specialize in nuts, bolts and screws.

I don't know if the bolts are available from any of the companies that specialize in Packard parts. If they aren't available it is hard for me to tell you what your options are. However for a bolt that does not need to have a lot of strength, hexagon brass stock can readily be used to machine them from, especially the shoulder bolts, on a lathe that has threading capability. The brass is also nice in that it chrome plates very well. The non-shoulder bolts might be available at a place that specializes in bolts.

Good luck - I'm sure someone else will chime in on the subject that is more knowledgeble.

When's the last time you saw a deliveryman wearing a tie? It appears that the truck with its right hand drive would fit in right in down under.

If the car still has the original wiring, the insulation will be prone to cracking which could cause a short and fire. So you will want to disconnect the battery. If you find out that you need to remove the dash or a part of it you might want to consider a new dash wiring harness.