John Ulrich in San Francisco makes a 1 inch deeper battery holder for the newer battery size.
JPS

The cut off voltage for Pertronix is in the 4.5v +- .1 range.
Remember this is not the battery voltage but the voltage measured at the ignition unit.

Keep in mind that the primary ign. circuit goes thru approxamatly 15+ connection points that can cause a small loss of voltage, and small losses add up.

Batt - post, starter terminal, ampmeter in, ampmeter out, ign sw in, ign sw contacts, ign sw out, coil in, coil out. dist in, moveable point in, point contact. points to dist case, dist to eng blk, engine to gnd strap, pos batt post.

John

Folk's
To correct some miss information Re, Pertronix ignition for 6v pos, ground.
They are for Autolite distributors not Delco. #1585 P6 for 282-288-327 and #1586 P6 for 356.
If used on O/D equiped car insert a 6ohm 10w resistor inline with the wire from the O/D to prevent a direct short.

Also, since electronic ignitions are voltage sensitive, they have a voltage level below which they don't work at all, If your have a no start and feel it.s from a low battery voltage, try jumping from the black wire from the Pertronix to the battery negative term. This will raise the voltage approx .2 to.5 volts at the Pertronix and may be enough to fire the coil.

It is important to have your electrical system in tip-top condition to run an electronic ignition system on a 6v car.


John
Projects, P.I. PNR

Tom, I rebuild, restore lots of distributors and hunted for that rivet for a long time and never found it.
I make my own and it's quick and easy.
Get a piece of 3/32 thin wall brass tubing (hobby shop or hdwr store), some brass escutcheon pins,#16 gauge, ie brads.
Cut the tubing to the proper length, cut the pins to less then half the length of the tube.
Tap one cut pin into the tube, install the new "rivet" and tap in the other pin.

John

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Find a shop that make stained glass windows, they have the equipment to grind glass and polish it. About 15 minutes per lite.
John

Looks like it has a distributor, dual coil ignition possibly from 33-34.
John

I made a spacer for a friend so that he could install a later pan on his 54.
Traced a pan gasket on 3/16 aluminum and cut and drilled it to add depth for clearance. The dipstick tube bends had to be adjusted slightly to fit. Make allowance on the dipstick for the 3/16.
John

JD, Thank you, I learn something new everyday.
John

The manifold drain was on the prewar engines. I have 3 356 cars and none has that drain, and there is no provision for it. I also have 3 pre war engines, 32 and 35 std 8 which do have it so I do know what I am looking at.

The drain was for draining fuel that had acumulated in the manifold if the car was started and then shut off before the engine and intake got up to operating temperature.

When a cold engine is started the fuel is not fully vaporized and the droplets will form puddles in the cold intake manifold, if the engine is shut down at this time the liquid fuel will drain out. If the engine is brought up to operating temperature the manifold will warm up and this puddled fuel will vaporize and be carried into the cylinders and burned. If there is any fuel coming out of the drain after the engine has been run up to temperature then carburetor has a problem as fuel should not run into the manifold when the engine is shut down.

John

Edit: The 32 doesn't have the drain as it has an up draft carb.

Check with Fred Mauck down in Santa Anna, CA.
John