I agree with Peter, I have had the same experience with my 633's and the 126 but not as often.
Those starter motors are about the easiest to remove of any car in my experience. Just one easily accessed bolt.

Its many years ago since I set these horn buttons to work on my 2 633's and I regret not taking photos. The wire up the steering columns terminates with a tiny ferule soldered on to create a contact and to hold it in place. The insulating bush simply insulates that contact from the column and holds it in place.
The button has a brass screw under its centre that connects to earth via a washer under the top of the spring and the spring onto part of the steering column. The spring holds the button away from the live contact. When the button is pressed the spring compresses and the screw head contacts the wire completing the circuits.
Hope that helps.

There is a very poor illustration of this part in the parts book and it fits all 6th Series cars, part number 159707 copy attached

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2) The spark plug on the fuelizer is not necessary and would likely cause vaporization issues in hot weather, it was needed when fuel was much less volatile. I have left the old one in my 126 with a dummy lead for appearance only. The fuelizer was discontinued shortly after the First Series cars.
3) When I rebuilt my 126 many years ago I could not find new spark plugs so I used modem plugs with an adapter to fit the larger threads. I believe the correct plugs are now available. The Autolite parts finder on line list the plugs as 3076
5) I have stripped many clutches for this model and always found them to be in good condition except for the large splined hub that fits to the transmission. The splines have always had indentations that prevent the plates from separating properly. I had my hub splines recut deeper and all new metal plates made to suit.
7) the attached sketch shows the engine mounting.

A copy of the original Packard parts book is very helpful with its illustrations, Merritt has them, they cover the 1922 to 28 models. A service manual is also available and worth having but it's not nearly as useful as the parts book.

I have sent you a PM .

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The wire that runs up the steering column to the horn button is live so it needs to be insulated. Pressing the horn button shorts it to earth completing the circuit and powering the horn

I can confirm that the generators from a 1930 740, 1929 633 and 1922 126 all interchange mechanically. The generator parts of each vary considerably but the drive and mounting plates are all the same.

I use these instructions when adjusting the brakes on my 633 which I suspect is the same as the 533. I have had good results however I have never succeeded in having the brakes pull up absolutely evenly under all conditions.

https://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/1929_BendixBrakesServiceBulletin.pdf

These instructions are on this site, there is a lot of good information here.

There are two linkages on each side between the cross arm and the rear brake drums see attached drawing from the parts book. What information are you looking for?

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There were a few fragments of linoleum remaining on the floorboards of my 126, it was dark grey.

Glad to help, PM me an address and I will mail you copies