Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Hi Folks,

I am trying to put together the list of things to do and need to have in order to overhaul/rebuild my 1953 Cavalier engine, which may go from being a simple valve-and-ring job to a full-on rebuild, depending on what I find as I undertake this job. One way or another I intend to give the engine a good going over, and I may end up taking the engine to a machinist (I have found a few around here who can do the job, particularly Tech Machine in Livermore, which a few years ago rebuilt another 1953 327 Packard Engine, and Central Machine in Oakland).

From reading the service manual, one tool it seems would be good to have is the tool J-4540, for measuring the hydraulic tappet clearance. I understood this was available from Pacific Northwest Packards in the past. However, it doesn't appear on their "Projects" page on their website anymore. I wrote them and haven't heard back. I read the note on another post by Tim Cole about putting the lifter in place dry, and pushing the spring down with the feeler gauge, or Mr. Dyneto's note about measuring how far above the valve seat the Valve rests when the lifter is in place. But perhaps the tool is a better solution if one can be obtained?

I am not sure how important the Valve Guide Driver/Deloth Gage J-2577 is, if I am lucky I will not have to replace the valve guides. But if I have to, is this tool available? Or is there another solution to how to drive in the valve guides?

I have the Service Manual, the Parts Manual, the Service Counselors. I also have a 1955 Motors Manual on order, hope it arrives soon.

Thanks and Sincerely,

Jerome Solberg

I made and sold the J4540 tool back in the '60s and '70s and still have a few left. Over the more recent years I've occasionally loaned them to folks with their promise to return them when finished. Unfortunately that was a promise rarely kept so I'll no longer offer one for loan without a significant returnable deposit.

Let's communicate via PM if you need to borrow one.

KD made a very suitable guide driver, KD-815. If you can't
find one, it's simple to make if you have access to a lathe . As to the installed depth of guide, no tool required, just measure before you remove the old ones.

Thanks for the advice and the offer. I'll let you know how it goes.

I was able to get in touch with Pacific Northwest Packards, and they have a supply of the J-4540 tools for a very reasonable price, so I am obtaining one of those.

Thanks again.

Never figured just how hydraulic lifters work on flat head engines. On OHV, usually the hydraulic lifter is pre loaded by the adjustment at the rock arm.
Seems on a flat head with no adjustment the valve spring tension would be the most critical part of having the correct preload on the hydraulic tappet.

Quote:

Good to know. Did the person you contacted happen to mention why they were removed from their website projects list page? A lot of items PNW used to carry are no longer listed.

They didn't mention why the tool is no longer listed, but I will ask.

It looks like KD-Tools has been bought by GearWrench, and I didn't find the KD-815 driver (or any other tool like it on their website), though I did find a few on Ebay. Looks like Goodson has some tools that might be just as good, they have a couple of different ones with an 11/32" pilot diameter, I don't know what the O.D. of the valve guides are, nor do I know at this point whether I'd need one, but for future reference:

Goodson Manual Valve Guide Drivers SAE

If you get into a valve job, a couple of helpful hints.

1. Before you remove the valve springs, use corks or similar to plug the oil return holes in the valve chamber. This will prevent foul language if a valve keeper were to come loose and drop thru into the oil pan.

2. As you remove and install guides, protect the top of the block and especially the valve seat area from errant hammer blows with a piece of wood.

Hi Folks,

Well, I started working on replacing the Valve Guides. Gosh, one really has to pound on them hard to get them out! They started to chip and disentegrate while I was pounding them out.

I was using this tool:

cylinderheadsupply.com/kl1765.html

It started to deform this tool a little bit, the shoulder was mushrooming.

I tried pounding a new Valve Guide in (from Kanter) and it ended up chipping a little bit, I had to pound it out, too. Fortunately I had bought one extra each of the exhaust and intake valve guides.

But I think I will try the dry ice method for installing them.

I was thinking of buying another tool to have as a spare. Do you folks recommend the tool above, or perhaps this one:

GP-534-G .343" x .487" x .336"

goodson.com/collections/valve-guide-driv ... ucts/manual-valve-guide-drivers-sae

I really don't want to break another one installing it. I hope the dry ice method works!

Thanks and Cheers,

Jerome

I've sometimes found it helpful to keep them in a kitchen freezer overnight to make installation easier but if that doesn't work for you by all means use dry ice. Don't forget a block of wood or similar to protect the valve seat from an errant hammer blow.

If the installation is particularly difficult, you might consider running a correctly-sized reamer thru them after installation to insure a smooth internal bore concentric with the seat.