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That drawing is close. Envision this. Take the motor and lay it on a bench, then take a saws-all and cut the motor in half lengthwise What would each half of it look like.

I guess I am dense but still not sure what you want. The motor is actually a modified generator and case so you would have a standard generator configuration -- armature with bearings, shaft, brushes, coils, and instead of a pulley on the end, the shaft is bare with a round pin sticking out on each side. The shaft end slides into and pins fit in slots which are part of a worm gear assy so in effect the worm and armature becomes a rigid piece. There are cutaway drawings of typical generator and starter motors on pages 3 thru 6 of service manual electrical section. Instead of a pulley and front plate to support the pulley and end bearing, the compensator assy has that part cast in and is where the worm gear assy is located.

Once the motor housing is attached to the compensator, it becomes a unit. The worm at the end of shaft meshes with a dual stage planetary gear system which rotates around a center support shaft. All that is detailed nicely in plates 32 and 32A in parts manual.

o.k.

I have an external toggle swwitch to manually activate the motor.

When I activate the motor I can hear the motor running but nothing happens.

From what I have been told, the shaft that you mentioned could be broken. The motor comes out by removing 2 bolts. Before getting into something of which I know nothing, I wanted to see a visual representation of the internals so that if I can get the motor out maybe I can see what is going on.

AL,

It could be the shaft you mentioned, but........

Is there any way that you can get the car up, level, on all 4 wheels?

I used 4 car ramps one time for this.

Here is what happened on my 55 Patrician one time. I could hear the motor engage, but nothing happened. I engaged the motor and observed that the ring gear rotated. The ring gear is the center section of the compesator, look in the parts book at the exploded view of the compensator.

I took the motor and compensator off and replaced the nuts and bolts that hold the gear box together.

I am going to try and get my mechanic over to my house to crawl under the car. At my point in life and physical condition I am no longer able to go crawling under cars. That is one of the resaons for trying to unload the patrician, the clipper rod and my car trailer. I just can't do it any longer.

OK, here is what things look like after removing the motor only. Two bolts and it slides out. The armature may want to stay with the worm so you may have to help it come out with the housing. The worm gear should be in the position shown.

On 55s there was an issue with a bearing retainer on the far side of the worm which loosened and allowed the worm to work it's way into the compensator housing. It would move just far enough the pins would come out of the slots and nothing happened when motor turned. Make sure the worm is in the position shown with shaft receiver extending out toward the motor and you cannot push it in. Bulletin 55T-12 details the issue and fix. I would hate to think after all these years it finally worked loose but always a possibility.

Assuming the worm is fixed in position and OK, try turning it with something. You can pull the armature out of the housing and use that to turn it or manufacture or jury rig something along this line so you can use a ratchet. It will turn fairly easy if reducing a load but if you are trying to raise the car there should be resistance. It takes a whole lot of turning to make very little happen at the bar links. If your turning feels too easy or a lot of turning results in no motion of the lever then another place of common break is at the output lever gear splines.

If something happened and the compensator moved the bars all the way around and tried to pass them thru center, the output lever assy can shear off. That has happened if a solenoid shorted, limit switches failed (or if the limit sw bracket was bent on a 55) or if manual switches were installed and the limit switches were bypassed or not properly in the circuit. The bottom photo shows a new piece compared to a sheared off piece.

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THANKS THAT IS WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR. I knew I signed into this site for a reason.

So itis possible for the pin to either shear off or slide out of the hole in which case the motor would turn and do nothing, which is what is happening.

One last question. Once the motor is out, is it possible to put a heavy duty wide blade screwdriver in the slot and attempt to turn it manually.

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I doubt the pins sheared. If anything in that area it would most likely be the bearing retainer loosened and allowed the worm to slide away from the pins. I am more concerned about the output lever shearing at the bottom of the splines. I've seen that several times so if you notice the transverse bars are bent that would be a strong possibility.


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Yes you can use a screwdriver but it takes a lot of turning and holding the screwdriver in the slot. I forget the ratio but something like 3000 turns of the motor to make the output rotate once.