Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

I would pop the distributor cap and verify the rotor is moving. If no rotation, then you know for sure something bad has happened to the chain or gears and can proceed accordingly. If rotor is moving then put the cap back on and use a timing light to check timing.

Specs say the 1801 should be at around 8? BTDC and if it is then you know the timing chain and gears are most likely OK. If timing is way off from the 8 degrees then you know the chain was not broken but possibly is defective or not replaced with the rebuild and could have become loose enough to jump a link or two. I would not think that anything like that could happen to a running car from just sitting a few weeks.

If you can verify the timing is OK then pull a valve cover and check for stuck valves.

some cyl had low 25 - 30 psi or none.

how do I tell my guys what to take apart in the least expensive manner to replace the timing chain.

My initial thoughts are to remove the hood, radiator, water pump, and front piece.

Too bad I don't have Packard dealer.

I'm sure any of my mechanics can replace the chain once we get to it.

Bob

SOME had cyl pressure as low as 0 and some 25-30. In order to intelligently diagnose the problem please post how high the others were. If they're all low it could point to one problem, if some are high 60-100 then another problem.

I would not recommend tearing the engine apart before you have carefully diagnosed the problem.

Bob,
I think Fred K. is absolutely correct in that it far to early
to start major work. Earlier I mentioned the compression check, it is vital that the throttle be wide open during the test.Also,since there was a strong backfire it might be wise to remove the air cleaner and look down the throat of the carb to make sure the throttle plate is opening when the
test is run. It would be interesting to know the pressure in
each cylinder 1-6 or 1-8 the pattern of pressures might be a clue, for instance two very low pressures next to each other
might indicate a bad head gasket, this could be from a head
gasket that was not retightened after running a while.
I think HH56's idea of sticking valves also makes sense
I think I noticed the work was done about a year ago, has the car been sitting since then? Many times the better shape the
engine is the more likely the valves will stick, Packard had some problems with this even with new cars in storage.

It has also been mentioned many times that good connections and battery voltage are CRITICAL on a six volt system.
Are we sure the solenoid was the problem?
These engines were among the very best available.
Sorry to be so long winded but we all share a sincere desire to help you with your problem.
Jim

Note - both the throttle (as noted previously) AND the choke valves must be open for a valid compression test. Also crank thru at least 3 compression strokes per cylinder before recording the pressure.

Good catch OD!

Considering all comments, I think it's a timing issue.

Was the starter removed when the solenoid was replaced? If so, was the distributor pulled to provide a little more room to remove the starter? If the distributor doesn't go back in exactly as it came out, you're inviting timing problems. I have a vague recollection that the distributor gear engages with the oil pump gear inside the engine or something like that. That can be 180 degrees off and the car will backfire before it will start.

You said you had spark, so this probably isn't your problem, but . .. Do you have overdrive? If the overdrive contacts are stuck, it can cut out the distributor. (Which it needs to do when you shift into overdrive)
Temporarily remove the wire from the overdrive relay to the low voltage pole of the distributor and try to start the car. If the car starts, shut it off. Open the relay and unstick the contacts.

I agree with seeing if the rotor is turning and checking valve movement. But this sounds very much like a timing thing, if you have spark and fuel. These engines don't need all their cylinders to start and run.

Joe,

An engine with some cylinders at 0-25 lbs cylinder pressure has serious problems. Distributor placement has no effect on this, you could remove the dist and crank the engine and if you had no or little cyl pressure and then put it back it would not run. Gas, spark, 12V battery, starting fluid etc etc.....if all are present and there is little or no compression it will not run. If compression is at 60-100 and it does not run then you have to check the other things.

After reviewing the comments it would appear that the valves are opening at the wrong time. There is rotation at the distributor, therefore the timing chain is rotating.
How do I correct that problem?

Bob

Remove the timing chain cover and examine the chain and sprockets to see if you can determine if and why the valve timing has changed. If you observe that the chain has jumped, the solution involves installing a new chain and sprockets. It would be a convenient time to also replace the front seal.