Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Tim,

Not sure if you read the reply to my post on the AACA forum.

But here is a link to Model A Ford Fabric Roof Install

Google is our friend.
See attach PDF

Attach file:

---

Size: 169.27 KB; Hits: 57

Regarding sealant on inserts...

once the top mat'l is tacked into place the use of a non-hardening strip caulk in the sheet metal channel seals the body and base of the metal 'wireon' style trim. 3M is a good product, black in color and easy to use. Once the trim is tacked on the underside that carries the tacks takes a liberal amount of strip caulk before folding it over and the excess is easily cleaned and dressed and is also paintable. Make sense?

Highlander160,

Thanks for the tip on the caulk.

This stuff right 3M Strip Caulk

To make sure I understand it you place a strip under the wire-on and also a strip over the tacks for the wire-on before folding it over?

I haven't heard you mention in any of these posts the formed metal moulding that surrounds the fabric insert, perhaps it wasn't used in your year?

Last I knew the moulding (extruded aluminum or brass?) was not available and you had to carefully save the old pieces. Held in place by a large number of very small wood screws, the heads of which are then covered with sealant and painted.

Let me be clear here. The moulding, trim, wireon, tack strip, or whatever else it may be refered to in this post is just as owen-dyneto says, an extruded aluminum product. It's available new from LeBaron Bonney and the same as found on most American top inserts. It looks very similar to fabric wireon in appearance and function. The use of fabric wireon is a cheap and easy 'fix' and looks it. As with all tasks in restoration time and patience are key. Unless you do them all the time it's not a fast process to make it look as new. There will be final painting involved that needs to be of the same quality as the rest of the roof sheetmetal. I may have posted before, many models had the fabric insert mat'l and the trim in body color. I can't say with total recall when that practice began or ended. Take some pics and show us what ya got...


Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that that's indeed the 3M stuff to use.

Mine was the extruded aluminum (flat on the bottom dome shape on the top with numerous holes for nails) but it is/was is very ruff shape. I searched RSC, Lebaron, and other sites, have made numerous phone calls to top of the line restoration shops without any luck. So my last resort was to order the wireon but if someone does find a vendor that supplies the aluminum I sure am willing to purchase that instead.

Hey thanks for all the suggestions.

I think the strip caulk idea sounds like a winner. When I get the chance I'm going to look at the junkyard car again for any evidence of sealer under the molding.

Now the molding on the car is in perfect shape. So good it looks new. And I don't think they put any sealer under it, but if it is the original molding and never had sealer then I wouldn't put any on there because that would be removing the original build. The folks who did the insert before did only show cars and I'm sure they never tested the top for leaks.

So if the only thing that was replaced was the fabric then why the top was water tight remains a Packard secret which is why I'm interested in a factory build spec.

If the molding is new it may have come from Northfield Forming in OHIO. They do extrusions. Ask for Dick the Packard guy.

The big issue with this car is that it should not be exposed to the weather and so roof leaks is moot. However, there is always the possibility that I will get a call to fix it regardless and that will be a whole new situation.

I remember many years ago seeing Turnquist's mint original 1939 which he never took out because it had the same problems as this car. They're only original once.