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I have used DOT5 since I first rebuilt the brake system in the early 90's. The Caribbean had DOT3 in it when I bought it and I will probably not change that.
I've had success with both.

I personally have not had that much luck with the vacuum bleeder. To be fair, it was a cheapo HF unit so maybe not in the same league as yours. But, like you I pumped for what I considered to be an inappropriate amount of time for little to nothing showing for it. While I can't prove it, my feeling was on my car the thing was taking advantage of the least resistance and pulling air thru the piston cups right next to the bleed screw instead of pulling fluid the long distance thru the lines. The way the cups are formed, it is no trick at all for air to slip by the lip in the reverse direction.

I finally gave up messing with the vacuum and bought the Speedibleed setup that Dave (clipper47) in Canada mentioned.http://www.speedibleed.com/ It does the job quite nicely.

I bought the basic DIY K100B universal cheapo kit. It comes with the general purpose adapter. To be fair, my 56 is not exactly stock and I knew it wouldn't be used as they sold it. I have a remote reservoir for my dual master mounted near the battery and bought a special pressure bleed lid when I ordered the reservoir. Transferred their fitting to that lid. On the 47 it will be used as sold but that is a manual system.

Trying the universal adapter with the BTV out of the car, with some judicious positioning it appears it will work --- IF there is enough clearance between the BTV and steering column. It looks to need about 2" to clear the strap attachment screw and about 1" for the adapter proper. I honestly can't comment on the clearance since I never tried it in the car.

If the quick connect fitting hits the column, it might need to turn to the side. A 90 degree elbow would probably solve that issue. Otherwise the option for any pressure bleeder would be find a specific BTV threaded adapter or maybe another BTV threaded cap. With one of those you could plug the vent opening and drill and tap for 1/8 pipe. Screw in the quick connect fitting and you have a permanent something for the next time or the other car..

I seem to recall someone else having the kit so perhaps more info will be along. One downside to pressure bleeding the BTV is that relief port. I wouldn't think keeping the pressure to the recommended range or lower would cause any issues though.

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i have that hf hand vacuum ,,it worked on my datsun truck, \\

since putting on rebuilt btv i do need to see if its works on packard.

if i can figure out the thread on btv cap think i will put a remote tank some where. that area is a pitb,,,,,,,,,,

Take an old soda bottle or peanut butter jar with a screw on lid. Drill a hole in the lid and stick some small diameter rubber tubing through the lid and all the way to the bottom of the jar. Put a little brake fluid in the bottom. Push the free end of the hose over the bleeder screw that you have opened a good half turn.

Fill the master cylinder to the brim and pump it five times. Refill. Repeat. Do not close the bleeder till that wheel is done. The check valve in the master cylinder keeps it from drawing back, and even if it somehow does, the tube is submerged.

Make sure the pedal is coming all the way back up so the master cylinder can take a drink each time.

On a completely empty system it takes about 15 pumps to get the right rear wheel done, then about 5 for the left rear, 10 for the right front, and about 5 for the left front, in that order. Seriously, the whole job can be done by yourself without rushing in 15 minutes including a few sips on your coffee.