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I could see coolant leaking from the gasket but not oil because there should be none up that far inside the block.

Don't have a view of much of the engine side but it looks like oil could be on the side of the head above the gasket. If so it seems strange it would be there even if there is some way it is leaking from the gasket. Any chance it is coming from farther forward or being blown up the oil fill tube and coming out to be blown by the fan and sort of pooling in the gasket space until it drips.

There are counselor articles on various engines about oil being thrown up a too short and unbaffled fill tube and also from around the timing chain cover and also from tubing to the filter and drips from the filter itself. There is a tube from the filter going somewhere very close to the fill tube. Is that going into a port or into the tube?

This is a very good thought. It does "smoke" out of the filler tube from time to time. It seems like this only happens when driving on the highway at around 60-65 mph for more then 10 miles and the motor gets nice and hot. Around town and just out for a Sunday drive and the temps stay normal for the most part and I don't see oil.

The oil is in droplets all over the coils and some what on the horns. The spark plug wires and covered near the coil.

Don't really want to buy a new head gasket... But the oil coming from the head could be from blow by of the rings or something I suppose especially if the head gasket is cracked right there at one of the Pistons.

I'll be honest I'm not 100% sure what it is I'm trying to say here lol. I did notice the water pump slings water/coolant in little droplets, so assuming front seal is going.

fuel pump is out and I took it apart to see what was going on. you can see the rip in the diaphragm. I will take this to Terrill for rebuild because someone already tried and I'm not gonna mess up the casting any further then it is. i like rebuilding stuff like this myself, if not just for the satisfaction, but i have no idea how to get that donut screen back into that cage without screwing it all up. the rebuild kit only comes with the screen and not already mounted in the cage.

water pump is out thanks to this advicehttps://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=18341&post_id=181810#forumpost181810

I have no idea WTF is going on with the thermostat. is that stock? or did some dumbass rig that spacer up to hold that 180 thermostat?

the water pump is in need of some serious attention! and I'm pretty sure it is not a 37 model.

radiator is crap as well. looks like some asshat welded the water neck all together, or maybe jb weld...idk. its in pretty bad shape. it really needs a re-core. gonna take that out and try to pull the distribution tube out through the grill. looks like the radiator is held in on each side by a few bolts that are easy to get to and looks like it would just slide out engine side.

fuel pump should be a 1523202, but that doesn't seem to be the number on it. looks like 1523110. but looks like the right pump non the less.

there was no formal gasket on the water pump, just globs of silicon. that little D shaped black one is what was sealing off the pump hole and it was filling the little round hole next to the big hole as well.

i could rebuild the pump myself as well, but i have no idea wtf it is...best left to someone that has seen several.

poor engine...shakes head.

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Looks like a modern thermostat has been installed instead of the original bellows type. Would think the retainer used on it is still the same as the older type used. Your ring looks a lot like the ring Max sells but maybe is a bit dented. If it is homemade perhaps the original ring dissolved or was lost and someone made do..

James from Kanter posted a photo of the original bellows type thermostat used thru the early 50s. Wouldn't be much of an issue to go back if yours is a non pressure system but the modern type thermostat is cheaper and much easier to find -- also more reliable in a pressurized system. Packard changed to the modern pellet type when the pressure caps started to get over 7psi.

the car indeed has a pressure system with 4lb cap. have 7lb in the trunk I believe.

it is out of round because of me trying to get it out of the housing. it will form back to shape before I put it back in. thermostat is a 180 which should be fine, but the motor is still getting over 200.

radiator was re-cored in 1996 according to receipts. 20 years. some of the fins are loose too and I can move them around. probably due for a new core.

good time for me to take it out and get it repaired. and also source better electric fans that are not out of balance.

Yes the retainer is just like factory original or it may be the original one.

As far as sourcing better electric fans I'd suggest finding the problem and fixing it. In 1960 we had a 120C that ran fine and at the right temp always, when the cars were new they did the same and electric fans were not invented.

Certainly no need to use a band-aid approach, do it once and do it right and you'll have a fine running car


May all your meals be square and all your wheels be round

Henry, I would suggest going to a lower temp rated thermostat with 160 being the highest. The new retainers are inexpensive and also suggest installing one with the new thermostat. The 160 stat will not help with running hot or over heating, but will give you a wider temp margin.

(o[]o)

a lower thermostat was on my mind as well, but didn't post it for fear of backlash.

after pulling the distribution tube...plan on taking a power washer to the hole several times and seeing if I can get whatever gunk is in there out. 2500 psi pressure washer is sitting in my shed.

retainer looks good with no rust...just dirty. will clean up and paint with rust preventer before putting back in. obviously will reshape.

waterpump saga this way:https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=18341&viewmode=flat&order=ASC&type=&mode=0&start=0

Are you going to pull out the freeze plugs when you pull out the distribution tube?

So is that 1939 water pump moving enough water for your engine size?

I might as well pull the whole motor....the trans needs to be looked at too and probably replaced with the one Flack gave me. but thanks for reminding me of the freeze plugs. that will make getting the gunk out easier.


no idea on the water pump, but I doubt there is much difference.