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studs in. last of the parts painted green. now on to the last bits of black painted parts. but as i'm typing this i realize i left the water neck in the purple power to peal the paint off it.....so maybe i should paint that green lol. i should have just enough green paint left. 1 qt is all i got.

yes i painted the gasket flanges on the parts with gaskets. i'm weird.

Kanter sending correct oil rings. thankfully i didn't start this motor with the incorrect ones inside. when they come in...removal of pistons to correct issue. thankfully i have not torqued or cotter pined the rods yet. then finally head can go on.

valves adjusted with help from my Dad, needed the extra set of hands to man the 3 wrenches needed. it was not the easiest thing to do with my OCD, trust me we kept doing it till i got it dead on, no room for error. .009 in and .013 exhaust cold. assembly lube and buttoned it up.

valve covers on now. new bolts and new copper sealing washers/gaskets on bolts.

cork gaskets are glued to covers and then grease used on the contact side with block.

stuck the intake and exhaust up there temporarily to just kinda look at it and keep giving me motivation.

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Looking good

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Hahaha! How quickly we forget! No leaks upon initial startup and driving. After 20 miles of driving before I loaded it up and hauling to Hershey, I promptly blew a freeze plug driving from the trailer to the parking spot at Hershey!

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Thanks! I have the harbor freight blast cabinet, but I had only used it on rusty parts with walnut shell media. I'll have to get it out and re-attack next time I need to work on some parts. I also have a small 120V compressor (30 gallon, 2 HP) and I assumed that was why my media blasting wasn't successful. Moving every 2 years makes it hard to have a big compressor!

Good luck on the motor, it's looking good, and I'm looking forward to seeing you get the motor running again!

I'll have to look up purple power - never used it before.

now with the oil rings squared away I was able to move forward.

Dad came by today and we redid all the pistons, put the head on, finished up the rods, etc.

gasket was coated with copper spray on the block side and the top was left alone as it is copper already. bottom was not.

have both cork and fiber oil pan gasket...decided on the fiber.

waiting on the crank gear and the rear trans mounts to arrive.

acorn nuts and washers are polished SS.

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Starting to look like an engine again. Unless the head wasn't touched I hope you took the opportunity to verify valve clearance before bolting it down.

Dad and I put the head on without the head gasket and turned the cam as we watched for lift of the head. no lift.

we measured both the head gaskets I have and the max merritt one was larger at .095 vs the kanter at .076 but the one from max didn't fit just right...the holes were not true and I had some bend in the gasket. so I used the smaller one from kanter, which was the one that had copper on one side already.

head was shaved .015 and the block .008

I will turn the cam by hand and make sure the valves are still good, but I'm sure they are since there was no contact with zero head gasket.

If a head is shave too much and/or or the block decked too much the valves will hit the head. But do not confuse with valve/block interference with correct adjustment of the valves. The lifters must be adjusted to the proper clearance between the lifter and valve stem. As I recall the final adjustment is done with the engine running and hot. The preliminary adjustment is done cold and now's the time to do it before the engine is installed.

Lookin' good

I know the difference and the valve to lifter clearance has been set cold by adding some to the specs in the book so when warm they will come within spec. Plenty of posts about that on here already.

I went back out and turned the cam by hand and it was smooth as butter. No worries.

Henry,

In 100,000 miles when your car will be needing its next rebuild you'll be well versed.

Lookin' good.

fred