Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

it's still there barely. just can't hear it as much now. lucky for me it was only one tappet that was off, not bad for my first time adjusting.

well these pictures seem pointless if you go back and watch the videos. but i got the radiator mounted in the cradle and mounted the front back on the car so i could fill it with fluid and start it. which if you have been following didn't go as smoothly as i thought it should have.

i used rubber washers on the radiator to isolate it and i made new rubber mounting pads for the bottom bolt as well. i had some left over pads from the body mounts on the 55. just had the grind them down a bit thinner.

i had to add more threads to the shutter bolt as well so i could adjust the shutters closed and open manually.

couple of issues.

the newer temp gauge bulb doesn't seem to fit in the side of the head as well as the old style. the diameter of the bulb is a bit smaller. it was seeping, so i tightened it more and consequently broke the bulb and the ether ran out. any thoughts on how i can mount a modern temp gauge to that hole?

vacuum wipers didn't do anything when i pulled on the switch under the dash. all the hoses look good in the engine compartment and under the dash...so i'm gussing the unit itself is in need of repair. fuel pump was rebuit and everything looks connected correctly. honestly dont care if they work or not, but i might as well try after i get everything else checked off the list.

Attach file:

---

  (32.67 KB)


  (29.04 KB)


  (23.40 KB)


  (37.86 KB)


  (46.57 KB)


  (32.44 KB)

Henry, don't know which make of after market temp gauge you have, but my experience is an adaptor, 1/2" or 3/8" NPT, is used to connect the gauge to the engine. The thread in the cylinder head for the original gauge is not a pipe thread. Why not reconnect the original gauge to plug the hole, and maybe provide some indication of temp, and connect aftermarket one to the port on the cylinder head used for the heater? It is pipe threaded.

Read all the posting about the problems encountered with the start up. Tough times, but you figured it out and fixed it.

(o[]o)

I had a similar problem with the modern temp sender I installed for testing purposes in the 47 head hole. Forget the thread size -- maybe 5/8-18 -- but luckily the sensor nut thread right in and no need for an adapter. Issue was hole depth was deeper than the nut could thread so bulb was loose. Bought a high temp O ring (type used for hot water and steam valves) and placed it around the bulb so it was between the bulb flange and the head. I was able to tighten the nut down sufficiently so it would compress the ring and seal the thing.

In my case, because I wanted to keep the original sensor in the normal head position I knew I needed a second location. Couldn't find a satisfactory commercial solution that was discreet or would sense properly and fit a Packard. The heater location on top of head kind of stuck out and figured it would not be accurate unless the heater was flowing water all year long. Decided to relocate the extra bulb to an adapter I made out of a 1" thick aluminum block conforming to the housing shape so it could sort of hide under the thermostat. Used one of the bulb adapters that came with the thermometer and threaded the aluminum block for that size. Think I used the 1/4 pipe adapter due to the space limitations on the 1" thickness of aluminum.

Even with the extra length of the bulb adapter, most of the bulb is exposed below the thermostat and should sense relatively the same temp water as the original sensor. A new thermostat housing gasket on each side of the adapter completed the mod.

Attach file:

---

  (60.14 KB)

I figured the hole was not pipe thread, but it did thread in and tighten so I thought maybe I got lucky and I did until I had to tighten a bit more and screwed up the bulb. It was reading fine when I was filling up the radiator. Then it stoped after tightening when I noticed the leak.

The gauge is a mini sunpro in a triple gauge pod.

I tried to put it in the top of the head since I'm not using a heater and even with the adapter the bulb was too long and it would not tighten. I would have to build the adapters on top of each other and it would look goofy. Still an option.

I will put the original back. It was working. I just don't know how accurate it is and the numbers on it are vague and it only goes to 212. Better then nothing for now though.

The filler neck mod is an option as well.

What about drilling out and threading for the original hole in the head for NPT, rethread it, and I use on of the adapters that come with the gauges to mount the bulb? Not sure I'm that adventurous.

I would not even think about rethreading the head. You only have one of those and luck and Murphy being what it is ------

If you want to use the heater port and only need a small amount extra how about a M to F extension since you already have a 3/8 npt adapter for the bulb.

I used an extension on the 47 to raise the shutoff valve a bit higher so the heater hose would better clear the manifold. They come in different lengths but here is an ebay offering for one of minimal length. I would use as short of one as possible so the bulb is exposed to constant flow. This one is discreet and might work if you only need a little bit.

Jegs and probably Summit has various adapters for bulbs and maybe could supply a different length 3/8 npt for your Sunpro. I bought my slightly longer valve extension at Autozone but did not readily see it today (or search very long either).

Quote:

point taken.

i have seen extenders at the autostore. even with the adapter that comes with the gauges (which is the same length as the one you post and can get at the autostores) the bulb is too long to mount into the heater hole on top of the head. i would have to use an extender like this, which i think is the right size.

3/8 npt for the head and 5/8 for the gauge bulb side.

http://www.autometer.com/3-8-brass-npt-temperature-extension.html

Too bad they don't give a total length for that piece so you could see how much the bulb would extend. Since it is for directly holding the sensor without using another adapter it must have the special seat for the bulb flange. I would guess it might be around 2" long. IIRC, my bulb was about that length or just slightly shorter. Don't remember the brand I bought off ebay but wasn't high dollar. Looks like the Sunpro but is probably a Chinese knockoff.

If your tubing is broken and you want to try a repair here is a procedure. Unfortunately if the bulb is damaged and ether is lost it would need a new one so you would be just as well off buying a new gauge assy.
http://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge

i saw this write up last night after i broke the gauge. i could take the old bulb from the old gauge and graft into the new one following the proceedure in the link and then i could just keep using the orignal hole in the head. but at the same time...who knows if it would be accurate after that. even the write up talks about that.

but what was that you said about murphy....i'd probably jack it up and then i'd end up with two worthless gauges.

i don't know what length that is on that adapter, but oreilly can get them in, so maybe i can order one to measure it and see. or like you said find one on ebay that is cheaper and does have the measurements.

is that the correct size i linked to?

The size would be fine for a 47 head but I don't know if 37 is the same. Looking at the parts book it shows two sizes of pipe plugs and no idea what size your heater port has. If your head is original it would appear to use a standard thread instead of a npt thread.

The other question is since it says that adapter is made for a specific brand gauge is your bulb size the same and would it fit inside.

Attach file:

---

  (38.05 KB)