Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Haven't been following lately, on the shifter sticktion; there's an oiler or vent hole on the shift tube about where the arms are and I think that's the culprit, lets moisture/dirt in. I unfroze mine by opening the end by the steering box, there's a cotter and two pill shims that hold in the spring. Once you get that all cleaned out, and put back, spray white lithium grease (use the little tube that comes with the can) in that hole until it fills up and keep it full. Oils will run out the end and attract dirt.

White lithium spray grease, noted. Thanks Jim!

On another note - when I took the bowl top off the carb, I boneheadedly dropped the pump arm connector link, and have not been able to find it yet. Does anyone know if these can be purchased?

oldcarburetors.com has the WDO parts list scanned and lists it as p/n 117-58, sold back then for a whopping 7 cents!

Funny how things happen. When looking for the dropped accelorator pump connector link mentioned above, I found that my fuel pump pivot shaft was working its way out, with over an inch of it sticking out of it's bore! In the search for the missing link, I removed an aftermarket aluminum bodied fuel filter that someone had bolted to the inner fender at some point. As I removed the filter, I turned it over to check it out, and "clink", I heard the connector link drop! Yay! So that was resolved, carb reassembled, and the car back to its previous state.

I decided I should probably go ahead and change the oil and filter. For whatever reason, I assumed the oil pump was the oil filter housing - yet another boneheaded move. Since I had the pump out, I decided I'd clean and inspect it. Quite a bit of goop, gunk, and even some chunks, but overall very little wear (to my "untrained" eye, at least). However, I found that the pin holding the drive gear to the shaft was broken! The two remaining pieces look to each be about 1/3 the original length of the pin, so it stands to reason the grit was the other 1/3 of the pin having been ground up. I'm lucky I had oil pressure all this time, and once again a boneheaded move turned out to be fortuitous!

Now to the questions: Is this a common failure item? Where can I find a replacement?

At first I was tempted to throw in a roll pin, but I question the quality of the standard "variety pack" roll pins I have on hand. Considering the original was solid steel, I doubt a hollow roll pin would hold up, and this is obviously a critical component - if it fails entirely, the engine has no oil pressure!

The pin is pictured in the parts manual, plate #93, but has no associated part number, leading me to believe it's a common, universal type pin.

Does anyone know what these types of pins are called? The remaining pieces appear to have three longitudinal groves equally spaced around the circumfrence, and extending the length of the pin...diameter is .125".

Thank you all for any insight!

edit: answering my own question...does this look about right?http://www.mcmaster.com/#98400a603/=q0vtg0

If it is the same diameter the entire length then it is probably a grooved dowel pin. If different diameter on one end then a tapered dowel pin. Packard doesn't give any specs other than there is one for junior engines and a different one for senior engine pumps.

McMaster-Carr has many types. You might check out McMaster's offeringshttp://www.mcmaster.com/. and see if theirs looks proper. Once at the site you could start with a search for grooved dowel pin and then find the one closest to what you have. You can also look for the tapered and some other types for comparison. Possibly you can find one locally once you have the parameters.

As I recall someone else had a similar issue with their fuel pump. Did yours have the retaining clip located in a groove at the center of the shaft or is yours the type that has the housing or a plug peened over the shaft end. I believe there was a question if the kit shaft had the groove for a retaining clip or if they had chosen a different retaining method that might not be satisfactory. Some felt it was better to reuse the old shaft to utilize the clip.

EDIT. It appears the pin you are looking at would be the proper type. One thing you might check before ordering is the condition of the hole. If the old pin broke and there was play, possibly the hole has been enlarged to the point an oversized pin might be needed.

Thank you, Howard, for the direction on the dowel pin. I have a local mom-n-pop hardware store in mind that I believe will have what I need.

As for the fuel pump, the shaft I took out was peened - so in grinding off the end I precluded its re-use. The supplied shaft has a groove on each end, but the supplied clips are too loose on the groove. When I rebuilt the pump, I used "E" clips from the "variety pack" that didn't fit perfectly, but I thought they would hold. They didnt - hence my suspicion on their quality.

future reference: www.then-now.com for carb parts.
Invest in one of those inexpensive flexible LED magnetic pickups for retrieving lost parts and a flexible grabber for non-magnetics.

Thanks Jim! I don't know why I didn't think of them - that's where I got my fuel pump rebuild kit.

My trips to the hardware store today were disappointing - no grooved dowel pins anywhere local. Order placed with McMaster Carr. Quick question - the portion of the drive gear where the pin resides is 7/8", and MC only sells 3/4" or 1" pins. I ordered both - which should I go with? If the longer, should I trim the excess?

I turned my attention to the exhaust manifold, which is missing the heat control thermostat and counter weight. After discussion with a very generous member here, I purchased another manifold as opposed risking damaging the heat control valve shaft by trying to beat old rusted pins out, etc.

Pics below show the replacement manifold after a quick wire brushing. I don't think it will seal with the intake manifold without a gasket. So I went to the craft store and picked up a roll of 36 ga. copper and formed my own gasket. It's not pretty, but I think it will work - what do you think? Is 36 gauge thick enough? I've read copper should be annealed to make it softer - is that necessary considering how thin it is?

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If the longer, should I trim the excess?
Personally, I would use the longer pin and trim the extra 1/8". It is hardened so won't saw but grinder or a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel should do it nicely.

Thanks, Howard - the longer one it will be. I value your input; any comment on the "gasket"?

I think you did a nice job on it but I'm probably not the best to ask on whether it will hold up. Others have more expertise so I'd hope you get a better answer.

If not, IMO the thickness is probably OK since there shouldn't be much deformity or pressure trying to blow thru. It is hard so if there are some surface problems then annealing or perhaps one of the high temp exhaust gasket rated sealers might be a good idea.

Once the manifolds are bolted on the engine and joint is aligned, then the mating joint is tightened so I would think it would hold.