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51's had very helpful holes in the front cross member to make it effortless to access the oil pan bolts. They must have found out early about the cracking issue as they eliminated them in '52. I have welded up some myself and then welded 1/4 x 1 reinforcing bars across the top.

The rubber washer goes into the MC first for the check valve (extreme right of your photo) to seal against. I know you have the parts already and rebuild is quite OK if the bore is very nice but will point out that MC is widely available for as little as 40 odd dollars. Likewise the wheel cylinders which are very inexpensive. I can't waste my customer's money rebuilding them and it might not be worth your time either.

Learn something new about these Packard cars everyday. Have to check mine out.

Thank you Ross

More progress today.

Master Cylinder rebuild and installed
Brake pedal arm installed
New brake lines for the front and main line going to rear installed

Started reassembling the rear brakes and ran into a bit of a snag. I can't remember the order of assembly of the backing plate/shims/etc.

Does it go:
Shim(s), backing plate, gasket, grease seal plate, gasket, oil deflector plate?

or

Shim(s), gasket, backing plate, grease seal plate, gasket, oil deflector plate?

Forgot to take pictures and the only exploded views I can find don't show the backing plate in the stack up.

Thanks as always for the help

Alan

P.S. Also asked in another post with no answer. What is the max diameter of the brake drum? Mine need to be turned to clean them up.

Look here for more information:https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=21942&forum=1&post_id=212913#forumpost212913
And that will send you to a couple more good links.
Also here's a picture that Howard labeled.
Wes

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The backing plate retains the bearing cup and shims control the end play so need to go between the backing plate and axle housing flange to in effect become a solid assy. Nothing soft that could compress and change the end play can be on that side so the order would be as you first list them.

Awesome.

Thanks guys. I assumed the backing plate went directly after the shims. Just wanted to make sure.

Any advice on the drum diameter?

Alan

Unlike Studebaker specs for the 57 Clipper, Packard apparently never published a spec on drums -- or if they did, at least no one has found one to post so it kind of goes by what the machine shops are allowed to do today. Here is a thread where this was discussed and I believe the consensus is shops must follow modern standards so it is doubtful you will find a shop that will remove any more than it takes to max out at .060 from the original diameter.
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=204233#forumpost204233

The fade resistance of drum brakes is dependent on the mass of the drum absorbing the heat of braking as they cannot dissipate heat as quickly as discs. I sure don't like to see them as much as .060 over although I've had cars come in turned .125. The owner thought the brakes were supposed to be that bad.......

Anyway, have them turned lightly if need be. Grooves are not a problem unless very deep, but rusty patches are.

A 12" combination square is perfect for measuring; use it plus feeler gages to determine the actual diameter.

A quick update and questions:

First the updated. Not a lot has happened in the last month. The engine is still in the shop being worked on. After total disassembly and cleanup there were not major problems with it. Going with a +.030 bore and and a -.010 on the crank.

The front suspension is totally disassembled, cleaned, and waiting for me to paint it. That will happen when the respirator I just ordered comes in next week. I was tired of getting high while painting and respirators are finally back in stock with a more reasonable delivery time.

Now the question:

It is now time to go into the Ultramatic. I have rebuilt an automatic trans in the past (Ford C-4) so that part of this does not scare me. However I have no experience with Packards. So I am looking for any advice from those that have done so.

1) Should I open up the converter?
2) Should I disassemble the valve body?
3) What should I look for in terms of wear items and known issues.
4) Is the Kanter rebuild kit the one to go for?


I have an original copy of the "Serviceman's Training Book" so that will help.

The car has 129K miles and has been sitting since 1965. When we drained the ATF it looked OK and did not smell particularly burnt.

As always, thanks in advance.

Alan