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37 6 cylinder reassemble issues
Quite a regular
Joined:
2017/3/13 21:07
From Poulsbo, Washington
Posts: 41
Ok,,, I have started the reassembly on the engine, installed the rear main seal, and dry install the mains and rods to plastic gauge , mains were center of the bands, rods were less than .001 and more than .0005 inches.
So r&r crank,, lube with assy lube, using a breaker bar on the balancer nut to rotate the crank
commenced torquing, l did the mains to 85 lb and could could rotate the Crankshaft fairly easily,
Did the rods next after oiling the pistons and cylinders I installed the pistons and rod bearings.


TROUBLE arose.

I Figured torque was in the 45 lb for this engine.
Ok...
Problem
can only torque rod caps to 15lb and still rotate the Crankshaft,

So. Looking for some insights,

Crank was 10 under ground and I purchased the 10 over bearings.
Rod caps were resized for the late model 10 over bearings



My thoughts are to torque the rods to 15 to 18 pounds and install the cotter pins.
Run the car for about 100 miles and pull the pan and torque to 45 pounds, and check rotation,

I wanted a tight engine and it seams that's what I have.


Thanks in advance for your experience.

Larry

Posted on: 2/14 11:58:27
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Larry Reber
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Re: 37 6 cylinder reassemble issues
Quite a regular
Joined:
2009/2/28 17:16
From West Bloomfield MI
Posts: 37
If you can rotate the engine at 15# on all rod bolts, tighten one rod to 40# and rotate. If it still rotates easily go to the next. When it becomes hard to rotate, you have found the problem.

I don't use bearing guard. Use the oil that it will be running in service. Also check the caps. Are any swapped or backward?

I would not run the engine without the proper torque applied to the rod nuts. Bolts need to be stretched to provide the proper clamp load.

Posted on: 2/14 15:36:31
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Re: 37 6 cylinder reassemble issues
Home away from home
Joined:
2015/1/16 9:43
From sw, pa
Posts: 1073
I didn't think the 6 had a rear seal? Only a slinger.

Posted on: 2/14 16:05:19
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Re: 37 6 cylinder reassemble issues
Forum Ambassador
Joined:
2007/3/14 16:01
From New Jersey
Posts: 15901
Good call, ptv - sounds like another case of a seal installed where none belongs, the 6 and junior 8 used a slinger thru 1947. Seems highly unlikely however that it could add enough friction to contribute to the problem. But it should absolutely be removed.

And I strongly second Duncan's advice, I wouldn't drive the car 20 feet with bearing capscrews so much less than recommended torque.

Posted on: 2/14 16:45:21
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Re: 37 6 cylinder reassemble issues
Quite a regular
Joined:
2017/3/13 21:07
From Poulsbo, Washington
Posts: 41
Thanks for the info.
I am Using a best gasket set that had the graphite rope and install instructions for a Packard.

The oil slinger now makes sense since it dug into the rope.

I'll be getting it removed and retorque the bearings.

Thanks Larry,
Oh.
Engine building experience
High school, rambler 6
1990's did a 49 Buick 8
2000 did a 27 Model t (still have that one)
Now my 37,

Henry Ford said once,
An educated man is not one who knows it all but knows how to find the answer,


Thanks for educating
Larry

Posted on: 2/14 19:17:38
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Larry Reber
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Re: 37 6 cylinder reassemble issues
Quite a regular
Joined:
2017/3/13 21:07
From Poulsbo, Washington
Posts: 41
Removed the graphite seal.

Removed all rod caps, wiped all pre-lube bearing surfaces with 30W,
While cleaning I saw that the edges of the bearings were being polished and the centers were not.

Discussed this with the friend who is assisting and he questioned a radius at the edges of the journals.

That brought back the discussion with the crank guy that he was going to do a radius,,,

From what I remember from last summer the crank was square cut on the journal to counter weight and he was going to add what ever radius he could.

So on Thursday we are going to do the adjustment to the edges


More later this week

Posted on: 2/16 15:08:39
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Larry Reber
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