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That is impressive!!! What lights and flasher did you use? Tell me everything, I think I need to do the same.

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TXGOAT - You win the prize. It’s funny that you mention the red carpet. My wife made a comment about the red carpet when I first got the platforms set up! I told my Dad, “I’ll do a lot for you, but I’m drawing the line at the red carpet”.

Thanks for the kind words su8overdrive. I love the look of my runabout. What I’ve been told is that when it was being restored in the 80s these are the colors they found under a repaint, or in other words it was restored to its original paint scheme. It actually has a lot of bright work for a 443. I like the look of the stone guard and the woodlites. The chromed sidemount covers are a bit much for my taste, I may at some point replace them with something a little less flashy. Someday, but not today. Thanks for the recommendation on the motor oil source!

29-640, thanks for the explanation. For now I think I’m comfortable with where I am oil pressure wise, but I appreciate the advice if the time comes when I do need to make the adjustment.

Mike (su8overdrive), thanks for the further detail on this. There is no such drain plug on my 443’s engine block. I currently have the water jacket off and have given that area a thorough cleaning. If my only real method for draining things after your flushing method is via the draincock do you think the method you described will be effective? I’m going to swallow my pride here to admit a mistake I made last year in that I used tap water rather than reverse osmosis water, so I am concerned there may be scaly mineral buildup on my radiator fins. (I was sure to use No-rosion at least to prevent rusting). (Also I do know Mike G at Max Merritt and have talked to him several times, Mike C at Tucson Packard too - they are both great. I’ll be sure to reach out to the others you mention.)

I also do see some rust throughout my system and so think a flush with Evaporust might also be productive for getting stuff out of the system. The thing I’m discovering with this car is that, while it was generally well-restored and well maintained, it seems maintenance did slip some in the later years of the former owner and so I’m just trying to get systems back into top operating condition.

Fish’n Jim I have been checking a number fo the things you mention. Water pump seems pretty good, fan blows well. One area of concern is that a small dripping leak seems to occasionally occur in the radiator (about 2/3 of the way to the top) after longer periods of driving in hot conditions. I’m not sure what to make of that. I’m also not sure how to check for rusted air dams or what a rusted Impellor is (is this part of the water pump?). I appreciate all the detail you provide, I hope you’ll excuse my very limited knowledge on all this.

85+ PSI sounds high for an earlier car. Ethylized gasoline was not widely available in 1930, if available at all, and low octane, low volatility, kerosene-like fuel limited allowable compression, even with improved Ricardo-type heads.

I'd look into the cold start issue first. I seriously doubt it is a serious problem, or any internal engine problem. I'd suspect a fuel delivery issue or an ignition issue, or both. The low(?) compression may be related to rings not fully seated, or perhaps stuck rings. The readings being so even is a good sign, as is the fact that the engine runs well once started. The compression may improve with some run time, if it is actually deficient. I'd expect it to. Compression readings up around 60 PSI are more than sufficient for the engine to start and run normally, especially when all 8 cylinders show similar readings. I've run worn out engines that used a lot of oil, yet still started very easily in any weather. Model T Fords start easily with compression ratios down around 4:1. In fact, a T will often start simply by turning on the ignition, with no cranking at all.

Weak ignition could cause the starting issue you are experiencing. You should have a hot spark at all cylinders with the starter motor engaged and cranking the engine. Pushing the car to start it allows higher electrical system voltage which might overcome an ignition system issue such as oxidized points. a weak coil, or a bad condenser.

Ugh, what a nightmare. Hope that it's able to come back together smoothly.

I will say, the LED bulbs are a pretty amazing upgrade. I did this recently with my 2302. Here's how they look at least in the garage, 6v positive ground and all.

https://youtube.com/shorts/JnYI3BYb9V8?si=QtH_R-rjy1pdWkAG

Not 100% sure what you mean by lower part. The shroud just clips into behind the grille and screws in with 1 screw up top. But your clip is broken (common issue).

This image shows the shroud removed and the headlight screws removed.

The two oblong holes are for studs in the grille (not shown in my image).

I attached an image of what the clips are supposed to look like.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/375065113941

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That was exactly my point although mine weren’t taped off. Instead they terminated at a connector block, one on either side of the front inside edge of the fenders, with nothing else connected to them. With the rears already wired from the brake light switch, the added turn signals used the same filaments as the brake lights.