Even if you don't use it, i'd keep the overdrive.

The car is more desirable with it.

You would need to change the driveshaft too and also the rear end with overdrive has a different ratio than without. I can’t help with the rear end but I’m pretty sure that I have a non-overdrive driveshaft at my shop.

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There could have been misfiring, but to my knowledge that shouldn't damage the valves at all. You just have junk on the valve stems.

I seriously doubt it.

What BigKev said. Had the same problem with my '37 when I swapped the (better looking) '40 cap. Stalled the car within two miles. Baffled me. Rebuilt the fuel pump. same thing. Pulled the cap.

Ran perfectly.

I had several weekends working on my '40 110, with cracked fenders, severe damage on the lower front edges of the fenders, and metal far to thin to weld with the Harbor Freight wire feed.

Yeah, that was fun.

I did tack-weld in a 3/16" rod on almost all of the lower edges of the fenders, and welded in patches behind the cracks on one fender, and riveted the other. Then a layer of fiberglass-filler, a layer of fiberglass, and another layer of filler. The leading 1/4 of the front fenders was thin enough to dent with my thumb. The (trash quality) fenders are much stronger now. The repairs will be primed and painted body-color, but the rest of the patina will remain.

Thank you all so far. One thing I did notice inside of the distributor the rotor cracked at the base and was able to rotate a bit on the shaft. Might it be possible if there was any misfiring cause damage to the valves?

Stuck valves, all day long.

I had stuck valves in my '37 237 and my '40 110. I soaked them both in Marvel Mystery Oil, Diesel, and a few other concoctions.

Pretty much zero effect.

I pulled the heads, intake/exhaust manifolds and opened up the lifter galleries; in both cases the No 3 and 4 valves were stuck open. On the '37, the tappets of the day had a dome-topped screw-type adjustment. Some moron ground them flat, and then with wear over the years, the screw face grew a divot from the valve touching it. Repaired that. Massive amount of crud on all the valve stems; it was not easy getting the "packard" script valves out of the heads but eventually I succeeded. Cleaned them up with a fiber wheel on a buffer, put them back in the engine and with the repaired tappets, the engine runs like a sewing machine.

Similiar effort on the '40 (with a '46 engine in it) but haven't fired that up yet.


Run non ethanol gasoline, and run the engine long enough to get to temperature, and run it monthly.


Thank me later.

This thread brings up an interesting question for me.

My '40 110 will not see freeway speeds; it'll be a cruiser around town. Pretty much stock.

I have a '47 transmission that came with a donor engine.

Should I just remove the Econodrive trans and it's accessories completely, and sell them? I'm in the middle of bodywork at the moment; the freshened up 245 is in the car, the trans is untouched.

Thoughts?

I need to send my oil pressure and temperature gauges for my 1937 138CD in to be rebuilt/repaired. I have found several places that do this type of work, but I was wondering if anyone had recommendations based on personal experience.

Please let me know. Thanks!