Thanks will work the nut when I get boards complete.

I found these but not sure where they belong? I don’t remember removing them.

Any ideas what these are?

I have no idea …hopefully get into this weekend and see what’s going on..will report back..tks for the help

Would you mind emailing Carpenter and seeing what the ohm range of that sender is?

The 48-50 need either the original bimetallic design, or one that reads 20 ohms cold and 100+ ohms hot. Idk if these really even exist.

Since yours reads cold when cold, but colder when hot, maybe it's a different ohm range. And also backwards.

I'm working on something in another thread that is an electrical signal adapter to convert between an otherwise-incompatible sender and gauge.
https://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=28197

Sorry Stewart

But nope.

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Looking forward to seeing it in the Registry, thermostat or not.

Early service letters actually recommended tightening the packing nut with engine running, and the pump turning. Not sure if that's even possible on later engines out losing a hand.

But the logic was this would put some heat into the packing and make it softer, which would help it shape to the shaft.

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My full running board rubber itself needs to be glued back down as it became unglued from the previous owner, but it looks as the corner/edge of mine was tucked beneath.

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UPDATE
I have received the new sending unit from Dennis-Carpenter. The threads matched up perfectly and it physically fits, only now instead of the reading going from cold to all the way hot. it starts at cold and goes past that to even colder as the engine warms up. Is there some wire that I need to change around to get this unit to function as the original once did?
Could this possibly be caused by a short? I would'nt think so, however my wiring is very old and crumbly.

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I've been away and/or busy with work, so I hadn't read about your saga in a several months. Great to see you got to spend some time driving it, and making memories with your family, before you decided to go deeper into it!

1. What led to you pulling the coolant system back apart? I thought you had a mechanic flush it last year? On the crud issue, now that you have the distribution tube off, you can use a combination of pressure washer, long stiff wires, etc to flush the block. On my 120 I soaked it in oxalic acid, neutralized it, and then let circulated warm evaporust through the block for a few days. It's super clean inside now. I was fighing an overheating problem that ultimately turned out to be related to an improper radiator core - recored the radiator to factory spec, and now it doesn't overheat, even in the hot Florida summer!

2. Similar questions on compression. What led to you taking the readings, as I thought you were quite satisfied with the car's performance? Before you pull the engine out, find a shop, and spend a few years/many thousands of dollars, I would suggest conducting a leak down test. I did that on my 120, and determined a compression problem I was having was a bad head gasket. Given that your three low cylinders are all in a row, it very well could be a head gasket. A leak down test will also isolate the compression problem to valves or cylinders. If cylinders is the problem, adding oil will tell you if the problem is worn rings or not. If valves are the problem, a quick hand lapping may be all that is needed! There is a lot you can diagnose before you take the engine to a shop! Also, on the compression test, did you perform it with the throttle held wide open, and allow 2-3 pulses so the reading could stabilize? Seems odd that it was running well for you recently yet suddenly has low compression.

I've been through a lot of mechanical stuff on the same engine you have, to include an in-frame overhaul, and many of the details are on my blog linked below. My advice would be thoroughly determine what your problem areas are before fully rebuilding. Yes, you could just send it out for a rebuild, but it may not be needed.

Best of luck, and happy to discuss further if it would be of help to you. Beautiful car!

Caution is the key. Make any packing nut adjustments with coolant in the system. I'd observe for evidence of a leak after adjusting, and if you still have a leak, I'd try another 1/4 turn. The nut does not need to be tight. If your engine is in running condition, I'd run it a few minutes after adjusting the packing nut, then look for any leakage. NEVER run the engine without coolant unless you remove the fan belt. Doing so is very likely to damage the pump seal. You may be able to use a small mirror to get a better idea of exactly what is leaking. Wipe everything dry with a soft clean cloth, then wait a while and then look for any new leakage. Good bright light is always helpful when looking for leaks.