Hello All, A local friend has inherited a nice 1939 120 Coupe, I looked at it and his question was what value is it worth, he must sell it because of health issues. The car was restored a few years ago and has very few miles on it.
The Interior, Blue, is Perfect, very nice woodgraining, Radio, electrical all works, Like new cloth, headliner, carpet all first class. Chassis, suspension, tires are excellent, Chrome is very good. Motor runs perfect and is detailed very well. But, the Lacquer (Black) will need a little attention as there are a few cracks in the paint. This is a stunning 10 footer but the paint will need some work.
I've attached a couple of pictures and he would appreciate some pricing guidelines.

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I wanted to just say a quick "Thank You" to several of the Packard parts suppliers that we all sometimes take for granted. I have recently finished (hopefully) my 1939 110 4dr and while admiring it last night I realized how impossible it would have been to have accomplished this without these vendors. Bill Hirsch, Max Merritt, Kanter, John Ulrich and Steele Rubber along with several others, many thanks.

There's just four bolts that hold the upper seat frame to the seat rails, remove them and it comes out easy. Then you will need to remove the seat slides, four more bolts to the floor, and take them apart. The small rollers have needle brgs. that are probably frozen and they will need cleaning and grease. Put it all back together and that seat will glide like a magic carpet.

I had the same stuff under the dash of my "39, it made a huge mess. I ended up using my shop vac and then kept pulling chunks out with the Vac generally keeping the dust out. As I reassembled the car I used Dyna Mat for insulation, much cleaner and very effective.

If you are mechanically inclined, remove it and work on it. On my '39, I disassembled the vacuum motor and cleaned it with Marvel Mystery oil, then used the same to lube it along with some white Lubriplate. There was a reed valve on top that I flipped over, it acts as the on / off switch I believe. I connected it to my A/C vacuum pump and let it run a couple of minutes and added a little more lube in it. Now my wipers work great. But you should put a vacuum guage on the port at the fuel pump and get a reading and then at the hose attachment on the wiper motor, it is easy to have a problem in between those two points.

Yes, '39 110 4dr.

Using a good contact {3m Black} cement is much easier. The new rubber is pretty stiff and getting the doors to close correctly is tough when using the clips or channels.

On my 4dr, they mounted on two vertical brackets that held them in place over the square holes just above the Ign. switch area. I glued in a couple of plastic pieces I cut from a milk carton to act as light deflectors, it looks good at night. This picture is looking from the rear with the radio delete plate installed.

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There is a "Bondo" type of filler called Gold Rage that I believe would work very well for your project. You should tape over the small vulcanizing holes from the back side and then mix and spread the Rage on. It should take minimum sanding with 80 grit to get the surface level, then the adhesive should stick well and all should stay on for many, many years. I would suggest to not do bed liner spray, it is a bunch of work.

I just rebuilt my seat rails on my '39 four dr. as they were also stuck in place. It required a complete disassembly and cleaning. There are four rollers (two per side) that have needle bearings in them that will need to be taken apart and cleaned/lubed. Once the four rollers are lubed and the track is cleaned and lubed, the seat will slide very easily. There are 15 needle in each roller so be careful while you take it apart. The rollers will only come out by turning the track over and letting them roll out along the top of the upper track. Putting the rollers back in is tedious but with lot's of grease the needles will stay in place.