Per this discussion, I went out and retorqued my head. I used 70 ftlbs. and found a couple of the front nuts turned about 1/4 turn before the wrench clicked, probably 5 of them in total. I also pulled the sparkplugs to see if any had discoloration but they all were the same. I'll order a new head gasket and try that but first, this coming week I'll put it back together and run it to see if it's any better. It hasn't mattered if the motor is hot or cold, it just started pushing out the water right away.

I have a '39 Six that runs very good but has started pushing the water out of the Radiator at road speeds. At a fast idle there are no bubbles in the water flow but when reeved up to 2-3000 the water immediately blows out. If I have the cap on it just blows around the cap. I had the radiator Rodded out and have pulled the freeze plugs and power washed the block internally, the motor temp runs about 180 until it get's low on coolant. I pulled the head and put on a new head gasket and it all seems to have been sealing. I'm at a loss
Thanks

I am rebuilding my rear end on my 1939 Six and I am wondering why it has drain holes in the axle retaining flanges, the new gasket set I ordered from M M do not line up at all with these drain back holes. These seem to just drain the axle bearing area so why are they needed?

My car is also a '39 Six with the original motor (I believe) no overdrive, I've cruised it for over an hour at 45 - 50 and back in Highschool 50+ yrs. ago, took it to 60 a couple of times but wouldn't do that these days. I think 50mph is a safe number for a long distance.

Most clock repair shops have the curved glass in stock, they come in many sizes and are very nice. I used one on my 39 Six.

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This is my '39 with the bumper sweeping up

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Grain-It Technologies has complete kits that can make you dash look as new and they have all the info on the correct patterns for your exact car. It is a lot of work but you can do this yourself, sending it off and having it done is usually $1200 - $1500.00

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Just be sure and find a real good machine shop that will be accurate on the crank turning, so get your brgs and have the rods redone so the crank clearances can be set correctly. . Also figure on having new exhaust seats installed.

On my 1939 model, I had to take it to a shop and use the Hydraulic press to get the old one out.

I restored my wheels, 1939 Packard Six, but before, they did have original pinstriping, including the spare. It was a very time consuming project but the end results were very good.

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