Thank you for the advice. I want to have the kingpins removed and the bushings burnished. The service manual says special Packard tools should be used like a spacer when burnishing to prevent the knuckles from being distorted and another to press the bearing in and not to hammer them in. I am not sure how to find a place to take my car. The kingpins were put in by a place that services trucks. They do not burnish, they just ream and let the kingpins wear in. I want to get it right now. Do you know the diameter of the kingpins? I called a shop and they asked me that. I live in Florida near Tampa, Clearwater, and St. Petersburg. If anybody knows a good place in this area, I would appreciate their reference.

I took my Packard to a mechanic and he disconnected the pitman arm and found the steering box was good. He said the tightness is in the kingpins, which were recently installed and this is normal. Apparently, they have to be worn in.

Thank you for the advice. I will take it to a mechanic tomorrow. I don't feel comfortable working under the car with the wheels suspended.

I loosened the adjustment screw all the way. With the front wheels off the ground, I can grab the left wheel and turn it, but it is very stiff. However, I cannot turn the right wheel this way. Also, with the wheels on the ground and the car not moving, when I try to steer I can hear a creaking noise on the right side. Now, I think it may not be a steering box problem. Does the pitman arm need to be removed to determine what is binding?

The steering in my 1947 Clipper is too tight. I am now suspecting the steering box. The kingpins, idler arm and bushings were recently replaced. This solved the play in the steering, but not the tightness. I raised the front tires off the ground and I backed out the cross shaft adjusting screw, but it did not help. The car sat many years. Could the problem be hardened grease in the steering box? Should I remove the top cover, and inspect the inside?

I would check the timing. Make sure it is not too advanced.

Thank you for the reply.
Is there a chance I will be able to pump fluid after putting sealant in the threads, if my pedal is going to the floor now without pumping fluid? If not, what should I do?

I am trying to bleed the brakes on my 1947 Deluxe Clipper.
The brakes were working except the front left. The brake pedal was hard near the top. I discovered the brake hose was clogged going to the failing brake. I replaced the hose, now I have air in the system, and the pedal is to the floor. You can't put a hose on the end of the screw in the bleeder connection. My manual shows there is a special tool that replaces that screw for the bleeding operation, but I don't have it. I bought a bleeder screw that has a hose fitting on the end, but it is not as long as the original screw, and I think air is getting sucked thru the threads.

I disconnected the vacuum line and made a video showing the timing being advanced by the centrifugal mechanism. I can't wait to see it with the vacuum advance working.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P8fkIfD_rpk&feature=BFa&list=ULP8fkIfD_rpk

My whole distributor is supposed to rotate with vacuum, not just the plate. I can feel the vacuum at the line when it is disconnected, but I can't connect it to my vacuum gauge to measure the amount, because of of the fitting on the end of the pipe. I am convinced I need the advance unit.
With the vacuum line disconnected the car will idle at 400 rpm. and if I slowly rev up the engine I can see the timing advance, but because of the centrifugal advance. If I quickly rev up the engine there is a hesitation.
Rick at Hagen's Hiway Auto Parts says he rebuilds them to like new with modern diaphragm for $85.00
Jason Smith at Advanced Electrical Rebuilders says he has NOS units, but I didn't get the price yet.