Corey

I to was told many years ago that my 1940-120 wasn't worth the time and effort, I did not listen. Although my car is still in need of being put back together it has been a wonderful ride meeting some of the greatest Packard people. At the time my jewel was a running driving automobile. Your vehicle shows it will need some work, enjoy what you have and be proud of your accomplishments.

I also have a 49 Super that right now needs to be going to a new home if I don't get to it pretty soon.

Enjoy, enjoy, enjoy.

Fred D

How does Roland Crawford sound in Groveland Mass. He was zoned only for mail order. I can't be sure but when I was stationed in Davisville RI. I did go to see him, and now I wish I had purchased more at his prices.

I may be wrong and my memory isn't quite as it used to be.

There was another Packard parts provider in I believe the New England area.

Fred D

Thank you Flackmaster please keep the Packard folks informed.

Fred D

Last time I talked with Yesterdays I was told he wanted to sell everything complete, and if not the molds were going to be scrapped.

Has anyone got any good news about the turnover or is the availability of parts also history.

When I talked to him he did not seem very happy.

Fred D

Fred

Thank you

Fred D

I have a question that will help me with my 1801, if some brake parts are black and some are cast blast, Which would be which? Are the wheel & master cylinders cast? Natural finish on fittings and brake lines? The same for the mounting hardware natural or black? I do not want to open a can of worms, however this might just help in my research.

Thanks in advance for any help
Fred D

I have had many items for my 1940 powder coated. Yes the heat does not work on bondo etc. There is a high temp metal filler that works however after being applied it must be cured prior to powder coating. It can be sanded after curing. I have found out several things for powder coating, first and foremost the piece needs to be completely free of rust, usually by blasting, secondly the pieces need to be completely coated with the powder. If not rust can form and spread under the powder thus needing to be the process to be done a second time.

I have had luck with just applying small amounts of filler after powdercoating after the surface has been prepared.

I have found that different materials sometimes produce different finishes even when using the same powder at the same time. I have had a few disagreements about the my conclusion. So I do not know how it would work on a gas tank restoration, especially in trying to coat the inside.

Since my own tank will be needing service I will hopefully reach a consensus to this issue with this thread.

Thanks Fred D

Awhile back I had looked at many different cast blast finishes and addressed my find. I will look back on my previous posts and see if it will help you. I found that that particular color had to be painted under very bright lights to see where the color actually was over a blasted manifold. The first time I definitely missed a few spots.

Here is the info I submitted a long time ago. It took awhile to locate it from my blog. I haven't posted in a long time.

The manifold was painted using a high temp 1200 cast blast finish purchased from Brandon Enterprises,P.O. Box 511, Trevose, Pa. 19053-0511. The paint number is 16-2688. It shows a manufacture called Seymour of Sycamore, 917 Crosby Ave. Sycamore, IL. 1-800-435-4886. They have a web page www.seymourpaint.com . found this paint to be so close to a blast finish you need to be cautious as to not miss any spots.

Hope this helps

Fred D

It took awhile to relocate this info. It will add new light to www.auto-motives.com/carsforsale/1923briggsstrattonflyer.html discussion.

Jed knows quite a bit about these and also the electric Auto Red Bug, he also has quite a few of each.

Fred D

Hello all. I am presently using, after many different experiments, the paint supplied by John Deere. It is reduced 10/1 for spraying, and I believe it to be the best solution yet. Good luck