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Oven size isn't the issue. Commercial places have ovens large enough to roll in large racks with parts hanging off them and some could probably do an entire bare body if someone wanted to do it or pay for it. Trying to do a body might get interesting if there were any body filler or solder on the metal and it sat in 400-450 degree heat for half an hour. Assuming it was just steel wonder if it would come out all warped and twisted.

I have had many items for my 1940 powder coated. Yes the heat does not work on bondo etc. There is a high temp metal filler that works however after being applied it must be cured prior to powder coating. It can be sanded after curing. I have found out several things for powder coating, first and foremost the piece needs to be completely free of rust, usually by blasting, secondly the pieces need to be completely coated with the powder. If not rust can form and spread under the powder thus needing to be the process to be done a second time.

I have had luck with just applying small amounts of filler after powdercoating after the surface has been prepared.

I have found that different materials sometimes produce different finishes even when using the same powder at the same time. I have had a few disagreements about the my conclusion. So I do not know how it would work on a gas tank restoration, especially in trying to coat the inside.

Since my own tank will be needing service I will hopefully reach a consensus to this issue with this thread.

Thanks Fred D

I had the wheels on my 115C powder coated. The nice thing about this finish is it is not as likely to chip due to wheel weights, trim rings, and wheel covers. One can get just about any color and finish in the new powder coatings. I had a shop specializing in powder coating do the wheels.

(o{}o)

What about the inside? If it isn't protected it will rust, the rust particles will clog the fuel filter or carburetor and eventually rust through.

Powder coating would be great for the outside but the inside needs coating too.