I am in the process of replacing manifold gaskets, and repainting the manifolds on my 1947 Clipper 6 cylinder.

I have a manifold heat riser rebuild kit, which includes a new spring, new bushings and a new shaft for the flapper valve inside the exhaust manifold. The flapper valve and the counterweight need to be re-used.

After 65 years of "attachment", the counter weight does not want to come off the shaft.

To complicate the process further, I have a buddy who is helping me on the project, and (with some 3 Stooges buffoonery) we have proceeded to crack the counterweight in half trying to punch the shaft from the cast iron weight.

And yesterday while I was at work, my buddy (a former machinist) was at my house doing a project for my wife, and he strayed-off to my garage, where he proceed to drill some slightly off-center holes through the counterweight trying to free the stuck shaft. I had warned him that I didn't have the tools to make this work, and it needed to be done my a machine shop, but, HEY, it's "2 Stooges" in action.

Three questions:

- Can the counterweight be welded ?

- Does the shaft need to be pressed-out, or drilled-out ?

- Anyone have a manifold riser counterweight for sale ?

Thanks, in advance, for the feedback.

Best regards,

Dave Blandford
cell 513-205-3188

Thanks VERY much for all of the feedback on my parts ID request.

I now know where to install my back-up light switch, and I realize that my '47 Clipper had an early PCV valve.

As I mentioned, the PCV valve on my car has no plunger or ball to close the crankcase gases, so I went searching for a replacement part - somewhere/someplace.

After turning over a lot of rocks, I found two companies that have some NOS vintage PCV valves in-stock. I haven't installed the replacement part yet, but the fittings are the same size, so I believe that it's a "no-brainer".

By the way, both of these companies identify the PCV rig as a Kaiser Willys/Jeep part from the 1940s & 1950s.

Here's the info on the two companies:

#1). Kaiser Willys Auto Supply (in South Caroline) describes their PCV part as "Emission Control PCV Valve<br>Fits 41-71 Jeep & Willys with 4-134 engine. Item #: A6895
New Old Stock Emission Control PCV Valve. Buy them while they last. Limited supply NOS original PCV valves."

Their website is here ->http://www.kaiserwillys.com

#2). Peter DeBella Jeep Parts in Riverhead, NY. Peter's website is athttp://www.debellajeepparts.com

The website's item description athttp://www.debellajeepparts.com/m38premier.htm
says "PCV Valve This valve is always clogged or missing. Fits both M38-M38A1 and MB-GPW. $35.00"

Thanks again for all of the helpful input and assistance.

I will let you know when I have the manifolds back together and on my car, with the new PCV valve hooked-up & functioning.

Best regards,

Dave Blandford
cell 513-205-3188

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The pipe is definitely tapped into the lower backside of the intake manifold, and it bends down towards the back of the engine block, where it screws into another large female fitting that is tapped into the crankcase immediately to the left of the back valve adjustment cover.

The fitting pictured is the piece nearest the intake.

I spoke with Frank from Northern Illinois, and his guess is that it's some type of retrofit using the engine block fitting where the crankcase open vent pipe might have been.

The car is an original Cincinnati, Ohio purchased vehicle, and I don't know why the adaption was made. I have read a lot about bad press or the open crankcase vent tubes on older cars; but it would seem that there would be some info someplace on the web if this is a primitive PCV valve.

Bottom line = the part in question isn't functioning, as there is a hardened dark tar on the inside of the intake manifold from this breather tube. It appears to have a spring mechanism; but there's nothing to stop (or limit) the flow of oily crankcase gases.

I need a time machine or a crystal ball.

Thanks !

Best regards,

Dave Blandford
Cell 513-205-388

Friends,

Two questions, please:

- I had fun driving my 1947 Clipper 6 cylinder this summer; but after enjoying a half dozen Family pleasure cruises last year in my original 32,000 miles Packard, I thoroughly toasted the original exhaust manifold gaskets. Now, the car is blowing & sputtering lots of exhaust gases from the non-existent gaskets. This weekend, I successfully removed (and separated) the exhaust & intake manifolds, with the intention of clean-up, paint-up, new bushings on the intake warm-up butterfly, and new gaskets against the block.

1st question - what's the part (see attached "Manifold Fitting 2") that screws into the upper portion of the intake manifold ? There's a flared steel tube that connects this part from the intake to the lower side of the engine block. My guess is that it's some type of crankcase heat or gas exchange. The actual fitting has a spring mechanism inside; but it doesn't actually shut-off or restrict flow, when you blow it from either end. Is this a stock Packard part ? It has an engraved part number of AC 1543973; but I can't find any reference to this number on search engines. Does the car need this part to run properly ? There seems to be a baked-on tar inside the intake manifold that would seem to be there because this valve is sucking oil vapors from the engine block.

2nd question - Can I get an ID on the plunger switch part (see switch 3) ? My car is great, because it has very low miles and no rust; but the first owner disabled & removed the Electromatic clutch and some of the R9 overdrive parts. This part was in my glovebox when I bought the car, so it could belong anyplace. I am not interested in restoring the Electromatic; but I am absolutely going to get the overdrive working again. I bought a new lockout cable for the overdrive, and I have also located & cleaned the kickdown switch on the gas pedal linkage. Is this plunger switch part of the overdrive system ?

Thanks in advance for the feedback ! ! ! !

Best regards,

Dave Blandford
office = daveb@heatermeals.com
home = dblandford@cinci.rr.com
cell 513-205-3188

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Thanks Oz !

Great Picts ! That's a very good look. Is that the POR-15 "Aluminum" high temp paint, or the "Manifold Grey" high temp paint ?

Best regards,

Dave B.

Thanks much for the tips ! !

Anyone have experience with the POR-15 or Bill Hirsch's high temp manifold paint ?

Best regards,

Dave Blandford

Thanks for all of the comments and suggestions.

Update - I got the car starting easily; but still running rough. While trying to set the timing, I noticed a significant carburetor leak. Coincidentally, I had purchased a NOS rebuilt carb from an old parts warehouse on Ebay just four weeks ago.

I installed the new carb, and that helped a lot. The old carb accelerator pump must have been shot.

I still have the timing problem; but I have borrowed an "older" timing light & dwell meter from a friend, which I intend to use (with crossed fingers) this weekend.

An additional request for advice - this car has a manifold heat riser which moves; but is missing the spring. Does anyone have a suggestion about finding a spring that might work for my 1947 Clipper ? Wouldn't this be a part that might be scavenged from any number of older cars regardless of make ?

Thanks again for your time and kindness.

Best regards,

Dave Blandford
cell 513-205-3188

I am working on my "new" 1947 Clipper 2100 6 cylinder with 33,000 original miles, and I just replaced the points, plugs, condenser, and distributor cap. It was running fine; but started to "miss", when it appeared to burn the prior set of points unevenly.

My main question:

It's a Delco-Remy distributor, and I have the correct points. They lock-down with a screw on the left, and adjust with a cam-type screw next to it. I "get" that concept. In order to check & reset dwell angle, do you simply need to pop the Dist. and reset the points 'til you get it right ? There is a 3/4 " rotary cap on the bottom left of the distributor, and it turns both ways. Is this a fine tune adjustment for the distributor ? In the picture, the part in question is at approx 9 o'clock on the outside of the distributor.

The car starts OK; but runs very rough.

I am having trouble making my timing light work (I don't own a 6 volt light). I have tried to hook the 12 volt timing light to jumper cables from my car parked next to the Clipper; then hooking-up the clamp on the #1 spark plug. It doesn't want to illuminate the timing light through the jumper cables (only when I hook directly to the 12 volt battery). I will try to remove the battery from the newer car and have it nearer my Clipper, , , that's next weekend.

Thanks for any input.

Best regards,

Dave Blandford
cell 513-205-3188

P. S. Yes, I know that I need to put my '47 pictures in the owners registry

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Here's a view of the end of the part.

Best regards,

Dave B.

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